1810 trans. disconnect

[onnie]

Hey all,
Stupid question time. Working on my second of two 1810's. The first ( bought new in 89) had a tranny disconnect labeled in plain sight. This one I have now I can't find anything. Any ideas?

[ironman]

One tractor has manual release valves the other has auto release valves.

[onnie]

So you're saying this one disconnects automatically? Thanks for the response.

[ironman]

These are release valves.
If you take your tunnel cover off you will see one type or the other.
With button on top are manual, lever depresses button.
Autos, just start pushing the tractor.

[onnie]

Yeah thanks, pushed and a little help from the Kubota where she needs to be.
I got a bad magneto so out comes the Mag. Head gaskets, breather, and starter rebuild. Thanks again for the help. Don

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by onnie

Yeah thanks, pushed and a little help from the Kubota where she needs to be.
I got a bad magneto so out comes the Mag. Head gaskets, breather, and starter rebuild. Thanks again for the help. Don

Unless the head gaskets are leaking, (and you would know it!) no need to fix something that is not broken.
Some members here have good luck with New DB Electrical starters,(Ebay) and a Stens coil is a less expensive alternative to a OEM Kohler coil, which is prolly now a China product.

[onnie]

Yeah, it's 350 bucks for a Kohler mag according to the dealer, so I'll definitely look at Stens. We have an excellent rebuild shop here for the starter. I knew the breather needed attention due to oil on the air filter, just waiting to get to it. Lastly, my head gaskets are fine, but my last 1810 blew one so I thought while apart why not? Your thoughts?

[ol'George]

As far as head gaskets, after the heads are removed its wise to take time and work them on a surface plate or flat glass with sandpaper, to make sure they are flat.
Then after installing and torquing to spec. it needs a couple of heat cycles of bringing it up to temp, then letting it cool, then retorqueing.
No, it aint in the service manual.
I guarantee if it is not done it will bite you in the butt. BTDT (but it only took once to learn my lesson)
But I needed the experience/practice of changing the gaskets.

You will be amazed how loose they get after the heating up/cooling.
But like I said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
A far as oil in the air cleaner:
No oil in it is a new engine or recently bored/honed and rings replaced.
Moist with oil but not slobbering, is normal for an engine with some hours on it.
A slobbering/oil running everywhere making a mess indicates worn rings or a bad breather valve, possibly both or other unusual abnormalities.

[onnie]

Geez George, the more you share your expertise the more you're making me think of letting them be. I just thought that while I had it apart....
As for the oil in the air cleaner its not that much. I did replace the breather in my first 1810. For some reason that I can't remember I've got a new reed valve in my parts stash so why not?
Any experience with OPE engines? They have the OEM magneto at a good price compared to elsewhere.

[ol'George]

The Head gaskets can be changed with the engine in the tractor, and yes the cooling tins lower bolts are not the easiest to get at but doable.
Be warned you will be removing some of them for the magneto coil change.
Be Careful they are little 1/4-20 bolts and like to snap off, so if they seen like they are going to do that, stop and use some heat before snapping them off,
as they are a pain to drill and remove them after they snap off like all bolts that snap off in a casting.
Just a heads up not trying to discourage you.
BTDT got the "T" shirt and trophy.--

As far as the coil, I bought an el cheepo from Evil pray maybe 8 or so years ago for like $20 ??.
It is still working, BUT, only above about *40, anything lower than that I need to use jumpers to spin the engine fast enough to create a spark in the magneto coil as I'm sure it has less copper windings in it.
you get what you pay for, and I just wanted to try one.