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PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!
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#32
02-19-2015, 03:20 PM
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FWIW:
If you removed the top tube/flange from the pump to align the flat for the drive shaft, by removing the bolts or nuts, you might have disturbed the o ring(s) in the stack up of the pump. I hope it don't weep/leak for you, but if it does, you will know why. BTDT. a kit will cure it if it does leak. 
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#33
02-20-2015, 10:04 AM
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Started this back in June 2013, But due to money and My new shop taking longer than expected we are getting closer to finishing it. Basically it's close to what you are trying to do but a little more in-depth.
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=31710
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#34
02-20-2015, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Nightow - your effort was my inspiration. Originally planned to go that deep and Red. Someday... So last night I did not do so well. In short, things battled me, tweaked my back (my fault) and found engine mounts REALLY bad. Almost worn thru the plate. One more thing to fix. PO thought this thing was flawless and like new  I did get hyd all wrapped up. (steering not in this pic) Not as pretty as preferred but in place. So still wanting to go the CH20 route. Both are sitting there, have the couplers to make the driveshaft. Have some questions. After my back I could not move the CH20 to compare. Is the pto height different on the two? Looking to learn engine plate to pto on the mag 20 and do spacers as needed. Need to know what the spacer thickness was originally. Guessing somewhere around .665? Those are easy enough to lathe up. Also debating what switches to set in in the dash while apart. For grins. My son holding the frame while we pressed the rockshaft apart.
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#36
02-21-2015, 01:11 PM
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Need to confirm command location in the 2072. I found another repower post where SamMac noted 8.5 inches from tractor front to drivers engine bolt. I had found another post that noted moving holes 3/4 in from slotted to fit this engine. As I am now 9.25 back I assume I need to move it to the 8.5 reference. Could you guys confirm?
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#37
02-21-2015, 03:44 PM
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Tim, I have both engine plates here. If you measure from the back of the plate to the front hole for the motor (center of the hole) it measures 12 5/8". That's the only way you can measure it as the two plates are different in the front, but if you measure from the rear they are the same. Does that make sense?
 Under edit: Do the CH18 and CH20's have the same base? My engine plate is out of a 1864, which I see differs from the 2082.... So... do both blocks have the same base? I don't have a CH20 here.
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#38
02-21-2015, 04:13 PM
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This is my "master" plate that I use to re-drill motor plates. I just bolt it to the plate I'm re-drilling and run the drill through it.
CH18 and CH20 should have the same bolt pattern.
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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