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  #61  
Old 02-02-2014, 06:06 PM
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Read this. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=5656
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  #62  
Old 02-02-2014, 06:07 PM
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Just ordered 2 Best to get some new head bolts, as well? 2" Grade 5, iirc. I want to be prepared, this will be my first venture "inside" of an engine so any pointers y'all have would be appreciated!
Check the head when you take them out, but I'm pretty sure they are grade 8.
Plane the head on glass, or have it planed. Other than that, de-carbon and re-install. Pretty simple and straight forward.
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  #63  
Old 02-03-2014, 12:16 AM
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I agree with everything said.
Just a technicality though..... The "rear" of a motor is always the flywheel end. So, the front is the PTO end, and the rear is the flywheel end, just as it is in the machine. The only ones that are different are the Kubota's. They are in backwards. Flywheel on them is the PTO end.
I was always told the single cylinder kohlers were in cubs backwards. Would make a difference when going to napa to buy a seal for the front or rear crank seal. Thought the two cylinders were the same. Guess that's why I dont consider myself an expert and am still learning too. Ryan, if I am wrong, sorry for the misleading info. Back to my kubotas............
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  #64  
Old 02-03-2014, 12:26 AM
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I was thinking they were in bass ackwards too. I learn something new everyday.
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  #65  
Old 02-03-2014, 01:06 AM
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Oak and Josh
I absolutely stand corrected. In the engine world, the rule is, motor front and rear is dictated by flywheel end. I have never noticed that in the parts book, the flywheel end of a K series motor is listed as the front. Just goes to show, that the "rules" have exceptions. I digress.
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  #66  
Old 02-03-2014, 07:07 AM
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I found this out a few years back when I changed the front and rear seals on my friends 1641.
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  #67  
Old 02-03-2014, 10:07 AM
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http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=k...catalogs_32419

Looks like the head bolts (part 41-086-02-S) are 5/16 - 18 x 1 1/2? For some reason I thought they were 2", can anyone verify legnth/size?
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  #68  
Old 02-03-2014, 09:59 PM
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Alright, after much research I found the correct head bolt size and picked up enough to do both heads. However, and here comes the bad news I know I'll get flack for, I could only reasonably gain access to one head. The side with the oil lines proved too much for me on this night. I got one oil line loose but for some reason, I could NOT get the other oil line loose. Anyway, I, much to my and your dismay, decided to do just the troubled side head gasket. Here are a few pics of the removal, the cylinder and cylinder wall as well as the piston, and the head after the 150 grit sandpaper (I did 220 after, but didn't get any more pics after). When I tried to move the piston up and down, there was NO play (that I could tell). Anything else I should check while I've got it open? This is as far as I've been into a motor since I replaced a rod bearing on my 2001 2.4 DOHC and that didn't turn out well so any advice that's out there, I'll gladly take. The gasket should be in tomorrow morning so I hope to have her going by 10:00. Thanks guys!









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Old 02-03-2014, 11:11 PM
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There is no way that "ran great". I'm wondering if you have a broken piston ring. That cylinder was running kinda warm. See the white exhaust valve? That's a lot of oil..... I dunno what to say. Clean it up really good. But be ready for it to smoke. It may come out of it.........
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:46 AM
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There is no way that "ran great". I'm wondering if you have a broken piston ring. That cylinder was running kinda warm. See the white exhaust valve? That's a lot of oil..... I dunno what to say. Clean it up really good. But be ready for it to smoke. It may come out of it.........
It may come out of it? What does that mean, the piston is going to blow out of the side of the motor or what? Either way, inspiring words

I didn't think it really looked too bad considering the gasket was blown and I didn't catch it right away but I'm not a professional mechanic. I compared how my head, piston, and valves looked compared to what we're in the pictures in the guide Sam Mac linked to and I thought they looked pretty similar (as in somewhat "normal" minus the piston corrosion the guy in the guide had). And as for "running great", I considered starting right up in the subzero with the only hiccup being a puff black smoke when I'd throttle up from idle (which i thought to be meaning running rich) to be pretty good. Kind of a downer...
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