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#1
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My friend is replacing the rings and gaskets in his 73. He was asking me about the governor gear. Someone had told him that he may or may not have to change it. I told him that I would post the question here, since I don't know much about it either.
Can anyone give me any info. about how to determine if it needs changed, and what all is involved? ... and any other advice I should give him about rebuilding the engine on his 73? Thanks. Josh P |
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#2
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I have read and it makes sense to me. If you are going to the expense with time and materials to open up a Kohler, you always change out the Governor and Connecting Rod even if they look good. Neither are very expensive but will turn into a big problem if they let go after wards. This of course, is up and above any other issues that are found and need to be addressed.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#3
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I have a broken govenor gear in my k301 and decided to go over the entire motor.The block is at the machine shop now.This motor ran great but all thats involved to tear it down to do the governor I figured go all the way.
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122-snow blade and 42 deck, wheel weights, fluid filled tires,chains 106-42"deck 1250-44 and 50" decks 147-44"deck 2155-42"snowblower 38"deck, chains,suitcase weights Exmark Quest-zero turn 42"deck 23hp Kawasaki engine |
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#4
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If he is that far into it, it would be 'cheap' insurance to change the governor gear and also change the cross shaft. The metal tab on the cross shaft can and has broken or fallen off allowing the governor to run out of control.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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#5
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Do it right the first time so your not looking over your shoulder or losing a good night sleep! You got a nice tractor = make it last another 30 years!
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BRIAN |
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#6
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Wait a sec. The cast governor gear is more durable than any plastic replacement. IMO. I beleive in an early tractor like that it should be a cast gear
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Tyler Chiliak. Southeast Alberta Canada. My dad and I own, 1650, , 1450, 1250, 1250, 1200, 982, 782, 149, 149, 149, 128, 128, 123, 100, 100. Also a 1310, 1500, and 2 1600 IHC trucks. |
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#7
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My friend tore it down, and thinks it may be beyond repair. The piston is scored, as well as the crankshaft. He said that apparently the blowby was blowing oil out the dipstick, and apparently he ran it dry or nearly dry of oil. Also, he said it looked like it had been rebuilt before, and wasn't sure if it had been bored or not.
So he's thinking of looking for another engine, and is not concerned about keeping it original, so he would be willing to put a different HP engine in it, if needed. Can you guys tell me if a 10 or 12 HP would work in a model 73? Any ballpark guess as to what a used Kohler could likely go for? Any idea what value his 7HP would be worth as a sale / trade as a parts engine? Any info would be helpful. He's needing to get it goin again, it's his only tractor. I've got a message into Mike, I know he has a spare part or two layin around .Josh P |
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#8
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Josh, there's a couple K161s on epay right now supposedly "good" complete engines that are under $30.... how high they will go????? To the best of my knowledge there aren't any new 7HPs, only 8HP.
I have a great looking fresh rebuild 10HP Kohler that was given to me with my 73. The engine should drop right in. Now the "correct" police may come after you, but in the end who's tractor is it?
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Gary '49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods. 5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah... |
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