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#1
09-07-2011, 10:46 PM
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1650 part and questions
this part fell off the tractor when i was taking the motor out of my 1650. its like a tapered, rounded type bushing. does this go on the drive shaft at the end in between the shaft and the flywheel nut? thats the only place that looks like it made sense?
story time... well earlier this spring i pulled the motor from my 1650 to replace a rod and do the cradle upgrade. i decided to reuse the original motor mounts because they seemed pretty decent ( at the time) well my buddy that did the engine work and welded the cradle said he could put the engine in to save me a step. so when i came to firing up the motor for the first time, it shook so bad that the tires were almost coming off the ground. i examined the mounts and they just didnt seem right. so i compared to my very smooth 1450 and sure enough they were way different. so now i pulled the engine out to redo the mounts and they dont look to pretty anymore. (sorry for the whole story) so i'm wondering if i should go with all new mounts which is kinda spendy but also wondering if i should solid mount it? i have 8 1x9 series tractors and ones a 169 and i dont think they shake bad at all? they just kinda rock a little at idle but i dont think they vibrate or anything really. let me know what you guys think. i'd really like to hear from those that have solid mounted there quiet lines. thanks 
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Nick.  Cub cadets 100, 125, 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 129, 149, 149, 169, 1450, 1650 and a handfull of parts tractors. #40 box blade, ih back blade, rear ih rock rake, #2 cart, windbreaker soft cabs, windbreaker hard cab, cozy cab, kwikway loader , wards corn planter, brinly plows, culitvator, rear blade, disc and the usual decks, snowblowers and 2 tillers 
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#2
09-07-2011, 11:10 PM
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That is what it is. You will need a new drive shaft bushing for the flex disk bracket. I had to put a new one in my 1250. You don't need the whole bracket just the bushing.
Buy the new ISO bushings. You won't hear from too many guys that have had luck with solid mounts. A few here and there might have, but usually they shake so bad you can't use the thing. On top of all that, that big 16HP motor is really gonna shake pretty bad anyway. You will really like the new ISO mounts in my opinion. Make sure the cradle snubbers are good and adjusted per the manual too.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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#3
09-07-2011, 11:20 PM
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I was looking for options to replace the isomounts in my newly aquired 1450, I see Rich Patton sells a set of replacement urethane bushings for around $20, they ought to wear at least as good (probably better) than the oem ones, and at that price, they are bargain compared to oems!
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Jeff Brookfield, MO ________________ IH Red 782 with weights and sleeve hitch! IH snow blade, Brinly plow, Brinly disk, Brinly harrow, Johnson rear blade, and a #2 IH Cart
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#5
09-08-2011, 12:09 AM
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thanks guys. i think i might just have to splurge and get all new mounts...
dwayne. so i just need to get the new version of what i took the picture of?
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Nick. Cub cadets 100, 125, 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 129, 149, 149, 169, 1450, 1650 and a handfull of parts tractors. #40 box blade, ih back blade, rear ih rock rake, #2 cart, windbreaker soft cabs, windbreaker hard cab, cozy cab, kwikway loader , wards corn planter, brinly plows, culitvator, rear blade, disc and the usual decks, snowblowers and 2 tillers
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#6
09-08-2011, 01:46 AM
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Nick - just to check...
When you replaced the rod and all - did you get rid of the balance gears? I'm assuming a guy with 800+ posts here did get rid of them, but just wanted to double-check. From what I'm seeing so far, there are a number of ways to go with the engine cradle mounts. Even the newer Cub Cadet "OEM" mounts are different than the ones our tractors were built with. They're stiffer and transmit more vibration. So you have a set of rubber spacers between the engine and the frame. Lots of variation here in how they fit, how they last, and how they affect vibration. But if you're way off the charts, I was thinking it was about balance gears and / or camshaft gear alignment.
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#7
09-08-2011, 07:45 AM
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I think its the driveshaft causing the vibration.
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104 to 127 conversion with dual 6x12s, hydraulics snow/dirt plow 1200 Quietline 44" mower QA-36 snow thrower
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#8
09-08-2011, 09:31 AM
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I don't think it can be the driveshaft or the balance gears. I did just put new flex couplings in so the drive shaft is like new. And the engine was fine before. Im 99% sure it wast the mounts because the back ones were squashed down but the bolt was barely tight and he must of either forgot to put one on the front or it fell apart and rattled out.
The whole deal kinda ticked me off
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Nick. Cub cadets 100, 125, 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 129, 149, 149, 169, 1450, 1650 and a handfull of parts tractors. #40 box blade, ih back blade, rear ih rock rake, #2 cart, windbreaker soft cabs, windbreaker hard cab, cozy cab, kwikway loader , wards corn planter, brinly plows, culitvator, rear blade, disc and the usual decks, snowblowers and 2 tillers
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#10
09-08-2011, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Chris at Cub Cadet Classics has the whole flange or you can get it from you local dealer: flange.jpg
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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