Trouble repairing electric PTO clutch on my 682

[dslemaire]

Since the armature on my clutch fried itself in the last heavy wet snow, I bought a new armature for it and am in the process of reassembly and running into some issues.

1. There is a spacer (about 1" deep) between the rotor and the bearing on the armature. If I stack the rotor, spacer and the armature together on the table, it looks from the manual that there should be a gap of .060-.090". Mine is more like .006". So do I need to find some shims for it?

I did notice the spacer is rounded on the ends as it is probably somewhat worn from rubbing on the bearing that was failing.

2. When I put the assembly on the crankshaft, the washer on the bolt going into the crank is smaller diameter than the crank itself? (about 1" diameter, the crank is 1.125") I'm thinking the washer should be touching the inner race on the armature bearing? Am I correct?

This is the way that I took it apart, which doesn't mean it was correct to begin with.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

[R Bedell]

There were 3 PTO clutches for the 82 series. One in Silver color and two in Black Color. The Black (Warner) were the most popular. I went into the old paper archives to dig this up. Do you have the right armature...???

[dslemaire]

Thank you!

The diagram of the bushings should be helpful.

I have the Warner armature, and I'm guessing I lost some material on my bushing when the bearing was failing and the wet snow heated it up.

But I could not find the part number for the bushing. So I suppose if I can't find a bushing I'll have to try to shim it to get the correct gap. Right now there is virtually no gap between the rotor and the armature disks and I don't think that is correct.

I'm attaching some photos of what I have and a picture of where the feeler gauge is that I believe is supposed to have a gap with the spacer installed.

[Sam Mac]

From the looks of the field coil and the spacer I'd replace the complete clutch. My guess is the PO put the wrong size washer on the end of the crank and it spun and wore out the spacer.

[dslemaire]

Sam

Thanks for the reply. It appears that I'll need to find a used bushing or have one made at a machine shop, as there isn't a part number available from Cub.

But I'm still looking around. In the meantime I'm heading out of town for a week, so I'll have to do some more phone calls on the road to see if I can find a bushing somewhere.

I'd like to avoid buying a new assembly as they're pretty expensive.

The coil did lose some insulation on the outside, but it seems to test OK, so I'm hoping it won't be an issue for me.

[R Bedell]

We are assuming, that you have a stock 682 with a KT-17 Kohler engine in it.

The one picture doesn't look like a Kohler.



Can you advise what you actually have.

[dslemaire]

Correct it is a KT17S.

[R Bedell]

OK....I thought I saw a silver or aluminum crankcase and I thought it was something different.

[Tractor]

I have used JB weld to cover where insulation on coil had deteriorated and flaked off. I just cleaned the coil surface well and applied the JB weld thinly on the wire only. It may not have needed it. But, I felt better having the wires sealed in and covered over.

[dslemaire]

That sounds like a plan. The varnish on the wires is still good. But the plastic flaked off. I was thinking "liquid lectro tape" or something like that would also work.

But my main issue now is finding a new or used bushing, or making one.