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#1
09-24-2009, 09:24 PM
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I started out replacing the hydro gasket....
In an earlier post I asked about the hydro gasket. I still don't know if the repair stopped the leak because I decided to tear the 123 down to it's bootlaces. I delivered the pieces to the sand blaster today. I expect to be priming within a day or so. I'm looking forward to the rebuild. I took these pictures this morning. I've been through earlier posts and have learned a lot from the experience many of you have shared. Thanks. I'll keep you posted.
PS: Any advice is welcomed! 
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#2
09-24-2009, 09:46 PM
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Restoring a tractor is a very rewarding project. I have a little hint: I'm not sure if you're done prepping those parts yet, but I'd pick up some rust converter for all the rusty spots you couldn't reach with the sandblaster or other means of cleaning. Rust will come back if you don't completely get rid of it. Prep work is EVERYTHING. Painting is 90% prep, 5% skill and 5% luck. Replace the axle seals, because Murphy's law will guarantee that one will start leaking when you put it back together. Same for the brake O-ring. Oh, and please tell me you had the cover on the top of the transaxle when you sandblasted it...
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#4
09-25-2009, 05:14 AM
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Matt,
Thanks for the tip on cleaning up the rust. As for the transaxle, it stayed in the garage, I'm not brave enough to let a sandblaster anywhere near it. The transaxle and engine are 'elbow grease' jobs. Your recommendation on rust converter will help on those projects. Thanks!
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#5
09-25-2009, 09:24 AM
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An $8 can of paint stripper will do wonders on the stuff you don't want to sandblast. I used that on my 100 to do most of the sheetmetal, engine tin, wheels, etc. in conjunction with the electrolysis tank.
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#6
09-25-2009, 07:37 PM
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Matt,
Paint remover is a great idea. I received the parts back from the sandblaster, he did a great job. The footrests and a few other parts had some pitted rust that remained. Small pits that were just deep enough to evade the blast media. I took you advice and sprayed them with rust converter. Waiting overnite for that magic to happen. I used a self-etching primer on the other parts and will follow with a fill primer. Does anyone know if lacquer primer is compatible with urethane base coat paint or do I need some urethane based primer? I was very interested in your instructions regarding zinc plating. May try that before this process is complete. I'm glad I had the frame blasted I found a three inch stress crack in the frame by the cross member where the engine rests. Never noticed it before. Spent some quality time with the MIG welder and she's good as new.
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#8
09-25-2009, 10:11 PM
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1cub2cadet3,
Curious about that crack... I found the same crack on both of my 123's, never seen one on a 122. I'm guessing it's from the hydro being slammed back and forth from forward to reverse and vise-versa.
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#9
09-25-2009, 11:14 PM
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Doesn't matter whether it's a gear or hydro...they all seem to crack there eventually. It's probably engine vibration and the torque twisting the frame slightly, along with shock loads from the front axle hitting bumps and stuff.
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#10
09-26-2009, 06:14 AM
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I think Matt's right and I would add that the location is just behind the attachment point for the mule and the snowblower. The blower is heavy and, I'm sure adds a lot of torque to the frame. Don't know if others with the crack ran a blower but I'm sure it contributes to the problem. Hmmm? Wonder if it would make sense to add plates to both sides to strengthen the frame. It would result in raising the engine about 3/16ths.....
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