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  #1  
Old 04-27-2012, 12:07 PM
VIOLATOR VIOLATOR is offline
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Default 1650 problems

Howdy
I was cutting the grass with my 1650n when it died. I tried to start it again and no luck so I pushed it in to the garage and tinkered with it checking connections and what not. I tried some starting fluid and that did not work so I pulled the plug and grounded it out on the block and i saw a spark afrer a few cranks and then the sparks became more consistant. I put the spark plug back in and the tractor started for about 15 seconds and then it crapped out again. And will not start up again. would the coil cause this problem?


Any ideas waht is going on with it?
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  #2  
Old 04-27-2012, 12:29 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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Normally the coil will quit when it gets hot and then go back to working when it cools down. I would check your points to see if they are burnt or if they got loose and the gap moved. A new plug wouldn't hurt either. Make sure all the wires to the coil are connected well. If everything else checks out OK, check the wires on the ignition switch, I had a mower that kept trying to cut off due to a faulty switch.
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  #3  
Old 04-27-2012, 01:18 PM
VIOLATOR VIOLATOR is offline
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I checked the points and it was good and all of the wires appear to be good. I had a similar problem a month or so ago and it was the voltage regulator so I bought a brand new one and it worked I am starting to think it is that again. Is there anyway to test them with the tractor not working?
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  #4  
Old 04-27-2012, 04:09 PM
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Howdy
I did some looking around and it looks like I could have a bad stator and that is the reason that I have blown torough my voltage regulator. Is anyone able to confirm this for me. and if so does any one know how to test the stator and the voltage regulator.
Thank you
Clifton
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2012, 02:22 AM
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steveyrock steveyrock is offline
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I doubt your stator is bad if the windings are open,do a a simple continuity check.Most Ohm meters will not read those small numbers in the diagram accurately to be helpful.

Maybe you want to clean out the magnet under the flywheel as it may have layers of dirt built up after many years of mowing. Mine was really filthy on the stator laminations where the magnet sweeps over.

I also got rid of that mickey mouse plug at the regulator and put new spade terminals on each individual wire so I knew I had good connections. check all your grounds and terminals.

are you sure your regulator was bad or did the crusty maybe loose terminals give a false diagnosis. Don't ask if I ever did that, lol.
was your battery sweating around the cell caps like it was being overcharged?

I think you have other issues in the wireing or connections, vibration will make bad or dirty connections fail.
your tractor should still start even if the stator is not putting out as long as the battery has enough voltage.

Get a wireing diagram for your machine and go over all connections and wires make sure they are correct and clean. Make sure your getting spark at the plug. Switch out the coil if not.
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  #6  
Old 04-28-2012, 04:52 AM
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this may help you too.
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122-snow blade and 42 deck, wheel weights, fluid filled tires,chains
106-42"deck
1250-44 and 50" decks
147-44"deck
2155-42"snowblower 38"deck, chains,suitcase weights
Exmark Quest-zero turn 42"deck 23hp Kawasaki engine
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  #7  
Old 04-28-2012, 07:34 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Had a similar problem with my 1450. It turned out to be the Condenser became loose and lost it's ground connection. Cleaned and tightened it up.......I was good to go.
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  #8  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:44 PM
VIOLATOR VIOLATOR is offline
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Howdy all
So I got a chance too tinker with it today and still no luck I went over all of the connections and they looked good I checked my coil and it had a low reading so I replaced it with one that tested okay and I thought that would do it but no such luck I am trying to avoid pulling the engine does any one know how to clean off the magnet on the fly wheel without pulling the engine and does anyone know if their is a difference in voltage regulators.
Thank you
Clifton
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2012, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIOLATOR View Post
Howdy all
So I got a chance too tinker with it today and still no luck I went over all of the connections and they looked good I checked my coil and it had a low reading so I replaced it with one that tested okay and I thought that would do it but no such luck I am trying to avoid pulling the engine does any one know how to clean off the magnet on the fly wheel without pulling the engine and does anyone know if their is a difference in voltage regulators.
Thank you
Clifton
Over the years it has been my experience that dirty/rusty magnets have little or no effect on making current for system.
If the engine is charging there is nothing wrong with the charging system.
You have no spark situation, that is a different system.
First you need to see if the plug is bad, sometimes the electrode shorts down the porcelain, so put a screwdriver in the plug boot and see if it will spark to the head.
if not it will be a point/condenser/wiring problem as you have already swapped the coil.
KISS--- keep it simple,
don't get in a hurry to trade the car, when all it needs is gas in the tank so to speak.

Refer to post #6 by steveyrock that is the complete ignition system.

You need 12V to the coil, the points make the negative side of the circuit,--- are they clean?
Run a piece of fine emery cloth through them (not sandpaper)
ok to steal the wives/girlfriends/boyfriends fine nail file/emery board---
if all is well there, possibly the condenser went bad.
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  #10  
Old 05-13-2012, 02:17 PM
VIOLATOR VIOLATOR is offline
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After a few new parts I got it working I put the new bosh coil on and new points and condenser I am very happy to have a working tractor again

Thank you all for your advice
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