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  #1  
Old 08-08-2012, 04:39 AM
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cdlong cdlong is offline
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Default 1450 engine rebuilding questions

I will probably replace the piston in my 1450. Can I use the old rod with new rod bearings and the new piston? If yes, what would be the torque? Anyone have a reasonable supplier for the rubber ISP mounts?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Piston bad 1.jpg (28.1 KB, 159 views)
File Type: jpg Piston bad 2.jpg (34.6 KB, 158 views)
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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  #2  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:02 AM
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I would replace the rod also!
Other people have used moog and solid mounts but I have found the OEM rubber Iso's from Cub Cadet work the best! My 0.02!
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2012, 08:44 AM
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Thanks for your advice!
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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  #4  
Old 08-09-2012, 03:05 AM
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All cleaned up. Figure on replacing the rod and piston.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Clean deck.jpg (28.1 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg Clean head.jpg (36.4 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg exhaust seat.jpg (24.2 KB, 135 views)
File Type: jpg Intake seat.jpg (25.8 KB, 135 views)
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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  #5  
Old 08-09-2012, 06:03 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcrazy View Post
I would replace the rod also!
Other people have used moog and solid mounts but I have found the OEM rubber Iso's from Cub Cadet work the best! My 0.02!
I agree 100% with Mike.

Have your crank measured as well.
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2012, 10:14 AM
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I only have regular calipers, so if you think I need to buy some micrometers, let me know. Measurements were: rod journel- 1 & 1/2". Bore was 3 & 1/2". As far as I tell, these measurements are within stock specs. I was able to push the piston and rod out of the bore with very little effort. Carb is good.
I'm replacing:
STD rod and piston
Piston rings
Head gasket
Oil pan gasket
I would like to replace all reed valve parts except the cover
Carb gaskets, I have a spacer plate between carb & block
All stock ignition parts to include a coil mounting bracket
Rod that operates the points

I'll lap the valves and adjust them and reset the timimg. Did I miss anything?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00330.jpg (14.9 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg exhaust seat.jpg (24.2 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg Intake seat.jpg (25.8 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg Bore.jpg (22.5 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg Piston damage.jpg (12.9 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg Piston side 1.jpg (11.5 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg Piston side 2.jpg (18.9 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg Rod cap.jpg (13.0 KB, 128 views)
File Type: jpg Rod end.jpg (32.6 KB, 129 views)
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1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2012, 10:20 AM
Ash_129 Ash_129 is offline
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Measure the crankshaft rod journal in at least 2 places. I would not be suprised if it is out of round, and out of spec. You need to be able to measure to the precision of at least one thousandth of an inch (0.001") possibly to see it.

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  #8  
Old 08-09-2012, 10:32 PM
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You absolutely have to have micrometers to measure the bore and crank...calipers are not going to cut it.
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  #9  
Old 08-20-2012, 05:18 AM
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Engine is rebuilt and ready to install. Great compression. Waiting on ISO mounts and modified engine cradle. I've been told to run the engine WOT for 20 minutes and retorque the head. Is this correct? I'm installing a magnetic oil pan plug and I'll change the oil when I retorque the head.
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