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#1
05-26-2013, 08:48 AM
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Cub Cadet 125 roll pin problem
Hey everyone! I hope you can help relieve some stress im having with my tractor. I have a Cub Cadet 125 w/ a K321 engine in it. For some reason i keep sheering roll pins. I dont know what to do to fix it. When we widened the frame with a torch to get the engine in the frame, i discovered the engine is not sitting level. the rear side of the engine (facing the driveshaft) is slightly not level. I also noticed the hole where the roll pin goes in basically is shoved as far front as it can be in the slotted coupler mounted on the flywheel. When we put the engine in it is a VERY tight fit on the driveshaft from the flywheel to the rear end. I have sheered grade 8 bolts and coil pins. The roll pin hole also is wore out so the pins either fall out of sheer in time. When i put a new pin in, i have to pry back on the driveshaft to get enough exposed hole to get the pin in. Should there be some play in room for the driveshaft between the engine and the rear? Should the roll pin hole be that close to the engine or was i supposed to shorten the driveshaft some because the engine wasnt designed for the 125? i want to get this fixed asap because i have grass to mow and cant until i get this figured out.
Thanks in advance for all your help! Scott 
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#2
05-26-2013, 09:29 AM
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Sounds like you have a number of issues. The drive shaft either takes Solid Dowel Pins or Spirol Pins. Roll pins will not hold up.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#3
05-26-2013, 09:35 AM
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Scott,
You have a lot going on here. Sounds like these are the drive pin at the rear of the engine. If the engine is to tight and miss aligned then this could be causing excessive wear on this roll pin. can you adjust the engine forward and level it? Not sure what modifications you had to make to get this engine in? Is this a stock engine for this 125? 12 hp? Regards, Chris
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Casbohm Maple and Honey www.mapleandhoney.com Cubs: 147R and the "train", 127 elec lift, 127, 125, 106, 102, 100, 86, 73, Brinly plow, Snow thrower, 2 Rototillers, several mower decks and several snow plows, #1 cart, Grandkids barrel cart.
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#4
05-26-2013, 10:03 AM
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It sounds like you need to move the engine forward a little and get a new driveshaft. There is a guy on here that makes stainless driveshafts, perhaps he could make you one with the hole moved back slightly but, my choice would be to move the engine forward and get the right shaft. If you're shearing off grade 8 bolts it's a wonder that you have'nt damaged something else.
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#6
05-26-2013, 11:00 AM
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First you say the engine is not level after you took the hot wrench to the frame. You need to fix that. The drive shaft needs to be in line with the transmission shaft. Then if the hole for the pin is still too close to the coupling you will need to get a shaft with the hole moved so that it fits. If the coupler is worn you need to fix or replace it and you need a solid pin on that end.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#7
05-26-2013, 11:58 AM
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I plan on using some flat washers to level the engine up. This engine is a K321 instead of the stock K301. The engine i put in is from a 149. would the engine have been mounted alittle more toward the front of the tractor vs the K301 mounted in the 125? If so then i do need to mount new mounting holes on the frame. Should the driveshaft touch the flywheel? Or should there be alittle space between the flywheel and the driveshaft?
Scott
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#8
05-26-2013, 12:39 PM
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I agree with everyone here on things to address with your 125. That K-321 is a bigger and heavier engine, and therefore, it is more critical that everything is in perfect alignment to work properly.
A stainless steal driveshaft isn't necessary. If you are confident that the driveshaft you have is of the correct length, then look at the couplers and holes in the driveshaft to be sure they are perfectly round. Wallowed out holes on any of these parts can cause movement and a slam on your spirol pin. Those pieces need to be replaced. If you need a driveshaft, a machine shop can make one using 4140 shaft steal. That steal is a bit stronger than stainless, and a bit cheaper, too. As previously mentioned, check your couplers for wallowing, too. Another option is to find a 129 or 149 rolling chassis, and transplant the engine. There will be no modifications necessary, unless you want to change the driveshaft to the Quietline style, using flexjoints. You'll love the wideframe design.
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