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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #1  
Old 05-26-2013, 04:14 PM
scottmi65 scottmi65 is offline
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Default Flex Joint

I noticed the flex joint on 1711 is bad, it looks like there are two flexes bolted together? When you buy a new one is it two disc or one disc?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2013, 05:14 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Flex Disc's are sold as EACH. You will need four.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2013, 05:34 PM
Mcamp Mcamp is offline
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Also be sure to check your ball bushings on both ends of the drive shaft.
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2013, 06:28 PM
scottmi65 scottmi65 is offline
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Okay thanks I will pull the tunnel cover and look at the rears also
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2013, 06:57 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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Considering what will be involved, just pull the drive shaft and replace all the flex discs and the front and rear ball bushings and all new spiral pins. You won't have to worry about it again for 15 maybe 20 years. I just did the whole thing to my 1711 late last year. Also to get the drive shaft out, you will need to loosen the four engine mount bolts and move the motor forward enough to make room to pull the drive shaft out.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2013, 07:02 PM
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The last one I fooled with was REALLY hard to get it to align.

I think once those splines wear some, getting the driveshaft to not wobble is a real art.

Tighten this bolt, loosen that bolt, shim here, etc,,,,,,etc.....PHEW!!!

Did I miss something? Or, is there a better way?
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:15 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CADplans View Post
The last one I fooled with was REALLY hard to get it to align.

I think once those splines wear some, getting the driveshaft to not wobble is a real art.

Tighten this bolt, loosen that bolt, shim here, etc,,,,,,etc.....PHEW!!!

Did I miss something? Or, is there a better way?
I don't know CAD. Mine went together really well. The only part that was difficult was getting the motor moved back with one hand while getting the drive shaft to slide into the ball bushing with the other. Once I had that done, it all bolted up fine. Now you have me wondering if I did something wrong.
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1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

10" moldboard plow

2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2013, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _DX3_ View Post
I don't know CAD. Mine went together really well. The only part that was difficult was getting the motor moved back with one hand while getting the drive shaft to slide into the ball bushing with the other. Once I had that done, it all bolted up fine. Now you have me wondering if I did something wrong.
There ain't nothing wrong, if the driveshaft spins "true".

Mine was flopping around like a baby rattle!!

Tweak, tweak,,,,,,, The worn 128 style driveline looks good to me, after fooling with those discs!!
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2013, 07:55 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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I'm trying to get my tractors off the rag....joints LOL
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  #10  
Old 05-27-2013, 09:53 AM
Mike McKown Mike McKown is offline
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Default Poly disc

Another possibility:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RELIANCE...-/300636837649

About 20+ years ago, I changed over 3-4 of my tractors from the rag coupling to the poly disc. These things are used as drive couplings between big electric motors and conveyor gearboxes and probably other uses. They're extremely tough!

I used them for several years and they worked without distortion. Of course I put in new driveshafts, couplings, balls or whatever was required to repair worn steel parts. I don't know how long they will last because I only used the tractors daily for a few years and then parked them. They're still in the tractors today.
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