Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Guest, We have turned off the forum to guest. This is due to bots attacking the site. It is still free to register.

-->
Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Off Topic > General Talk

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-09-2013, 03:00 PM
PaulS's Avatar
PaulS PaulS is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: PA
Posts: 1,642
Default Hydrostat question

When a part of the system such as the power steering unit and or the cylinder that actually pushes the steering is drained does that have to be filled before hooking it up or does that happen when you power up the system. How does the air get worked out of those parts.
__________________
With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-09-2013, 03:05 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

No, they will fill themselves. Fill the trans up full, start the tractor. Then cycle the power steering full left to right until it feels as if it's working normal. Then refill the trans. The fluid has a tendency to have bubbles suspended in it after this process, and you may have to let it sit for an hour or so to let them out, but it will be fine. The only "problem" the air bubbles cause is they make the system whine until they are gone.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:34 PM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 728
Default

J, do you think jacking the rear of the tractor up would get the air out quicker through the axle vent? I've had decent success with this approach when filling automotive power steering systems (making the reservoir that much higher than the gear/rack).
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:38 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwelhse View Post
J, do you think jacking the rear of the tractor up would get the air out quicker through the axle vent? I've had decent success with this approach when filling automotive power steering systems (making the reservoir that much higher than the gear/rack).
I don't think jacking it up would help any, however, you did bring up a good point! It is very similar to how a power steering system on a car acts after changing the rack and pinion. Leaving the "cap" off the system after running it to let it vent is a good idea.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-10-2013, 01:11 AM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 728
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I don't think jacking it up would help any, however, you did bring up a good point! It is very similar to how a power steering system on a car acts after changing the rack and pinion. Leaving the "cap" off the system after running it to let it vent is a good idea.
Excellent counter point and you're going exactly where I was thinking... A cub doesn't have a reservoir cap, just a vent in the rear housing. To be honest, the hydro's I've service haven't seemed to care one way or the other about it. I fill 'em and they work. I just wanted to ask the question to see what you thought.

Moving off topic (I hope the mods don't mind... Since it's good conversation and this is "General Talk"... Then again... The "smokers" have T-stats...)

I do the same thing when servicing the cooling system in cars, but backward. Leave the rad cap off and lift the front to make it that much higher than the thermostat.

Another trick grandpa taught me was to boil on the stove with a thermometer any new thermostat for 2 reasons.. 1, to make sure it would open at its specified temp, and 2 so you could stuff an aspirin in it to hold it open for expelling air upon initial fill-up.

Those wise old fellers sure do have some great tricks! I hate to disappoint grandpa, but I used a Vick's cough drop on the last one I did since I was dead out of aspirin...
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-10-2013, 02:10 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwelhse View Post
Another trick grandpa taught me was to boil on the stove with a thermometer any new thermostat for 2 reasons.. 1, to make sure it would open at its specified temp, and 2 so you could stuff an aspirin in it to hold it open for expelling air upon initial fill-up.
Most newer cars thermostat is on the lower return hose..... LOL. We just leave t-stat out all together as we fill. (If it's on top) Then put it on when the coolant gets to it. If it's located any where else, just pull a hose on the top, (like a heater hose). Note: some engines have air bleeders.

Note 2: Be careful of "grandpa's advice. Newer cars/ tractors/ etc, are made much different than that older stuff that grandpa worked on. Although in the right situation older ideas work and are good.... Sometimes "the way we used to do it" will get you in deep, DEEP $$$$ on newer machines.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.