ACR on a K-301

bocephus1991 · #1 09-27-2013, 05:34 PM

Guess its time for an over haul. My 1200 is getting very hard to start seems low on compression and is using oil like no tomorrow (half a quart and hr). But until I can get the funds to rebuild it, would it hurt to undo the ACR springs on the cam and run it? Will it destroy the springs? Was thinking that may make is least easier to start. I have taken them loose on another engine and did a compression test from the bench then reattached them so I do know what they look like and how they attach.

austin8214 · #2 09-28-2013, 05:52 PM

It will not help at all. The ACR is only used to aid in starting. Once it is about 500 rpm the ACR does do anything anyway.

dvogtvpe · #3 09-28-2013, 07:28 PM

that's not going to stop the oil burning. Here's something to think about. When a engine wears out generally the bore gets loose, piston starts to rock, rings don't fit the bore decent because its no longer round and there's to much rock in the piston. The ring tension gets weak because the bore is tapered and the rings move in and out way to much . This is where a good overhaul is needed, but most people try to prolong the agony of the overhaul. after you've seen as many engines as I have you start to notice how above the top ring the piston is wearing from the rocking in the loose bore. that part of the piston shouldn't touch the wall but the bore is so loose the skirt of the piston can't do its job. this is when the either the skirt breaks or the top of the piston breaks at the top ring land.
Now you can imagine the wear to the crank. once you have all this accelerated wear going on from a worn bore that's more particles of iron and aluminum in your oil along with unburnt gas's that are leaking by the rings that don't seal anymore. your crank is probably already worn out of round. now the rod fits loose and starts to hit harder on that layer of contaminated oil that's supposed to be lubricant. Eventually the film of oil isn't strong enough for the slop that's there and either the rod starts to gall or the rod starts to fracture. either way its not a good thing since Kohler rods are not that reliable.
You see a fair number of K series blocks with windows in the side of them. most owners don't have a clue why they failed other than its a junk engine. but the signs were all there to say " Its pretty tired We should probably do something with it before something bad happens" Just my thought's for whatever that's worth.

J-Mech · #4 09-28-2013, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

that's not going to stop the oil burning. Here's something to think about. When a engine wears out generally the bore gets loose, piston starts to rock, rings don't fit the bore decent because its no longer round and there's to much rock in the piston. The ring tension gets weak because the bore is tapered and the rings move in and out way to much . This is where a good overhaul is needed, but most people try to prolong the agony of the overhaul. after you've seen as many engines as I have you start to notice how above the top ring the piston is wearing from the rocking in the loose bore. that part of the piston shouldn't touch the wall but the bore is so loose the skirt of the piston can't do its job. this is when the either the skirt breaks or the top of the piston breaks at the top ring land.
Now you can imagine the wear to the crank. once you have all this accelerated wear going on from a worn bore that's more particles of iron and aluminum in your oil along with unburnt gas's that are leaking by the rings that don't seal anymore. your crank is probably already worn out of round. now the rod fits loose and starts to hit harder on that layer of contaminated oil that's supposed to be lubricant. Eventually the film of oil isn't strong enough for the slop that's there and either the rod starts to gall or the rod starts to fracture. either way its not a good thing since Kohler rods are not that reliable.
You see a fair number of K series blocks with windows in the side of them. most owners don't have a clue why they failed other than its a junk engine. but the signs were all there to say " Its pretty tired We should probably do something with it before something bad happens" Just my thought's for whatever that's worth.

If it's burning that much oil....... probably best to just park it until it can be fixed.

bocephus1991 · #5 09-28-2013, 09:06 PM

I knew it wouldn't change the oil burning situation ,was just wanting make it easier to start. dvotvpe you are right about what you said,may have to park it and get the 1211 going. I don't think a short block was ever put in it back years ago,think he (the mechanic) may have just done a ring job. This one I will do myself! Thanks for the input guys!

bocephus1991 · #6 09-29-2013, 02:58 AM

I was working in my garage tonight and checked the oil in my 1200 . It was at the top of the full mark when I started mowing thurs,mowed for about an hr now it is just above the low mark,but still in the operating zone on the dipstick.