Tunnel Cover screws/ threaded fasteners

clint · #1 10-18-2013, 08:54 PM

My 1541 came with 2 of the metal clips that slide over the frame that the screws thread into missing for the tunnel cover. The clips also slide around when trying to put the tunnel cover on and a real pain overall. I think the frame is to thin to tap so I was looking for a threaded bushing or similar. Has anyone come up with a solution for this ? My ideas.... a piece of metal below each hole mounting to frame could be spot welded, roughed up and jb welded drip, tap to secure tunnel cover. Or drill the holes to a larger diameter press a threaded bushing in to secure the tunnel cover. Just wondering if someone had come up with an easier way before I start this project.

J-Mech · #2 10-18-2013, 09:47 PM

I'd just replace the clips. I mean really, how often do you need to take the tunnel cover off. Seems like a lot of work for no more often than it gets removed.

Sam Mac · #3 10-18-2013, 10:51 PM

I use what ever fits or tap them 1/4"-20 and be done with it. I'm old, cheap and lazy. LMAO

clint · #4 10-18-2013, 11:08 PM

J-Mech I take it off enough to be a pain to me. The drive shaft needs to be greased, screen cleaned, I also like to take the check valves out even tho they are automatuc check valves to clean them etc it may sound like more work than pay off, but for me in trying to maintain what I can it would be a real help for me not to have to fight the clips that fall off get lost or take forever to get lined up with every time the cover moves the clips move also.

Sam is the frame thick enough to hold threads ? I know the older models are tapped in the frame, but it looked like the frame was thin on newer models. I will try the tap, if the threads don't hold up it will be a good place to start looking for other options.

Sam Mac · #5 10-19-2013, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clint

J-Mech I take it off enough to be a pain to me. The drive shaft needs to be greased, screen cleaned, I also like to take the check valves out even tho they are automatuc check valves to clean them etc it may sound like more work than pay off, but for me in trying to maintain what I can it would be a real help for me not to have to fight the clips that fall off get lost or take forever to get lined up with every time the cover moves the clips move also.

Sam is the frame thick enough to hold threads ? I know the older models are tapped in the frame, but it looked like the frame was thin on newer models. I will try the tap, if the threads don't hold up it will be a good place to start looking for other options.

It was on the two 1641's I recently worked on. Pic doesn't show it well but it had plenty of room for the 1/4/20 thread.

Gaden · #6 10-19-2013, 01:08 PM

There exists a tool for installing threaded inserts in the manner of a pop riveter. It works well in light gauge sheet metal. Do a search for 'threaded inserts'. I have never used them myself, but I saw guys in a shop I worked in use them all the time while building industrial equipment.

CubDieselFan · #7 10-19-2013, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaden

There exists a tool for installing threaded inserts in the manner of a pop riveter. It works well in light gauge sheet metal. Do a search for 'threaded inserts'. I have never used them myself, but I saw guys in a shop I worked in use them all the time while building industrial equipment.

I have seen those, it looks like they would work great in that application.

Sam Mac · #8 10-19-2013, 05:20 PM

I have some of those and thought about using them but was concerned that I wouldn't have enough frame width to work with. Top of the frame is pretty narrow. I didn't want to go over the 1/4" hole for fear of creating a place for a crack to start.

inspectorudy · #9 10-20-2013, 05:38 AM

I have used them and they are called nutserts. The do work in thin metal but they also have depth that may or may not interfere with something below the frame. If it were me and I was concerned with taking the cover off and on as much as you seem to do I would use a piece of flat bar 1/4 inch thick. Clamp it to the frame to get the location of the two holes on each side, drill it, tap it and then drill a hole between each of the dual frame holes and rosebud weld it through the new hole or if you have a spot welder use it. It is a lot of small work but it would serve you well and you could probably use thumb screws instead of bolts for even easier removal.

clint · #10 10-20-2013, 08:43 AM

I thought about thumb screws and also securing a bolt thru the frame and a nut to secure tunnel cover.... I like the nutserts the best. Thanks for the ideas.

Do y'all not grease drive shaft, blow screen/engine tins out, and pump fins twice a year or so ? Seems like very little work 30 minutes or less doing the modification after I find out what will work best.