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  #1  
Old 09-27-2014, 12:05 PM
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kostendorf kostendorf is offline
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Default Welding Question???

I'm wondering what is the best way to weld this up to use as a flower pot.

P1030866.jpg
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1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54" push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48" decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75' weights and chains, #2 cart.
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  #2  
Old 09-27-2014, 12:13 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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What's it made of? Cast iron you could use cast iron rod heat it up in a oven and weld it, or you can braze it. If it's aluminum it could be tig welded. Galvanized steel you could weld or braze too.
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:27 PM
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Its got to be cast iron, It was my Great grandma's from the 1920's. Its too big to stick in any oven. I've never tried welding cast iron so I don't know what rod to use. I've got an old Lincoln stick welder and a mig wire welder.
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1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54" push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48" decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75' weights and chains, #2 cart.
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  #4  
Old 09-27-2014, 12:33 PM
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For decorative use of the pot, I would clean it real good, then use JB Weld.
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:40 PM
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I would use a nickel rod in the stick welder. Prep the joint like you would with steel, clamp across the crack at the top so it stays even as you weld. Preheat the whole thing with a torch, any kind even propane. Just need to get the cast temp up. I would weld in 1-2" beads and move around. When your done hit the whole thing with the torch again until it seems to be even temp on the whole thing. Then let it cool slowly. For a flower pot, I only see the need to weld one side. Your choice if you want the crack visible on the outside or weld on the outside.

Bill
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berwil View Post
For a flower pot, I only see the need to weld one side. Your choice if you want the crack visible on the outside or weld on the outside.

Bill
AND, when you are done, in the winter, bring it in, or turn it over, so it does not freeze and break, again!!

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Old 09-27-2014, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berwil View Post
I would use a nickel rod in the stick welder. Prep the joint like you would with steel, clamp across the crack at the top so it stays even as you weld. Preheat the whole thing with a torch, any kind even propane. Just need to get the cast temp up. I would weld in 1-2" beads and move around. When your done hit the whole thing with the torch again until it seems to be even temp on the whole thing. Then let it cool slowly. For a flower pot, I only see the need to weld one side. Your choice if you want the crack visible on the outside or weld on the outside.

Bill
Thank You for the info. I'm not tying to fill the crack, just don't want it to fall apart. I'll try the nickel rod and just weld a bead on top and bottom of the cracks. I'm going to put plastic flowers in it for decorative porpoises.
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1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54" push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48" decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75' weights and chains, #2 cart.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:15 PM
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Looks like another crack from the lip down at the 1pm position.
With what your going to do with it, I might be inclined to just install a hoop of steel rod or strap around it at the top through the handles there.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:25 PM
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To heat it up good prior to welding, dig a hole in the ground and set a turkey fryer burner in the hole. Turn the pot upside down and over the burner.
Cover pot with fiberglass batts of insulation.
Might have to leave an air tunnel going to the burner.
Let it heat up good, above 500 to 900.
Then just push the batts away from the area being welded long enough to do the job.
Then cover up and let it cool slowly for a day or more the better.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-detail.aspx
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:22 PM
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WOW, I can see why I never tried welding cast iron. Thank you everyone for the input on this. I think I'll band it for now. It may be to far gone to actually spend much time on fixing it right. I Did not know how hard it was to weld cast iron.
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1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54" push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48" decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75' weights and chains, #2 cart.
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