Kohler rattle question

[mjsoldcub]

To start, I have a 1971 K241 that i got that was my grandpas. The engine itself runs VERY well, doesn't burn a lick of oil, (in fact the oil stays super clean). I haven't opened it up, as there hasn't been a need too, but I did rewire everything, adjusted the V/R to get it to charge. It never made any ill noises either. It is very clean. I rebuilt the carb with new parts, fuel line, filter, fuel pump diaphragm. When I put new points and condenser (there was some transfer) in it, it started this faint rattling sound at mid RPM. I played with the gap opening quite a bit back and forth, and where it runs the best, is also where it seems to "rattle" some (.014"approx). Needless to say, I know its related, spark knocking some? Now I've seen, some things posted in this forum and others about the Kohler rattle and to thin out the points, and/or cam wear, and breaker pushrod wear. Some just live with it. It seems it's kinda hard for me to do that. Now I did not change the push pin, and maybe I'm an idiot, but it seems to me that if that was the case (the pin being worn) then I wouldn't have to be retarding it correct? I guess what I'm asking is, if someone knows more of this, or some way to remedy? I mean I'm no stranger to a wrench, or small engines, but I also don't pretend to know everything either. I've never had one do this, that I couldn't get to go away. I mean it is faint, but still. I'm planning on pulling the head and checking out some things at some point, but was hoping I don't need to break the whole engine down, or look for a cam. Any insight from the experts would be appreciated.

[austin8214]

.014 is awful tight. I would recommend going to the technical section here and looking up the static timing method. Setting the points gap does does not set the timing.

[Yosemite Sam]

I don't know what model tractor your working on, I guess it doesn't really matter.

On a Kohler K series engine, we don't "adjust the points", we "set the timing" (there is a huge difference).

Go to the tech section and find "Static timing a Kohler" then do what it says to do, and leave the feeler gauge in the tool box.

[mjsoldcub]

thanks fellas, guess thats kinda what i was getting at...i first did it with a voltmeter, and thats where it rattles, and when i checked to see where it was it was @.014"...i was just saying that i played with it either way to see if it would change the amount of noise (detonation??) and it did...i even tried upping the octane some to no avail....would wear on the push pin affect this?? or the cam lobe??

oh and if i told you the tractor its in i might get pummeled...well at least its not green

[ol'George]

The low compression these engines run, I doubt you are getting detonation.
You are prolly hearing a little piston rattle or slight rod clearance.
My 10 hp in a 210 Deere rattled for over 10 years and still does when I use it.
And i'm sure it is louder than yours.
Set the timing by static method and it will be spot on.
And FWIW when you open up the point gap, it fires sooner=Advance.
closer = Retard.

[mjsoldcub]

you know george i was thinking that after i wrote it...see i am an idiot...well if thats the case well than maybe a longer push pin would make a slight difference....i havent miked anything or checked bore yet but im certain its not a mechanical knock/rattle, just because the way it started, and the way i can get it to lessen by fiddling with the point gap...it does have an early head (LP head), but still i think thats only good for a 7 or 8:1 or so...i dont know, tractor is awesome otherwise...just REALLY bothers me....

anx THANK YOU very much for youre thought guys

[ol'George]

Really only need to replace a worn/short point pin if you can no longer get the points to adjust ( or diameter is worn)
And nobody is an idiot for asking /sharing thoughts/feelings/questions.
We all learn till out last breath.

[bocephus1991]

That's a very good statement George! We all learn till out our last breath!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by mjsoldcub

...well if thats the case well than maybe a longer push pin would make a slight difference....

If you can adjust the points to get the timing correct, the length of the point pushrod is irrelevant. Only time it makes a difference is if it is worn enough that you can't get enough gap to properly time the engine. Otherwise, it's length is fine.

[R Bedell]

The shorter push rod can effect the dwell of the Ignition. For a few bucks and a little time, get the correct push rod, and then adjust your timing as outlined previous.