105 questions

[KiwiUSA]

OK I have a bunch of questions on my newly acquired 105, I have been concentrating on getting the mechanicals working good. I will list my concerns.

I have most of the play out of my steering but still have play in the steering wheel, it seems to be in the Ross steering, when I move the wheel it goes up and down relative to the amount of play I have Question #1 Is that because it is worn out?, Question #2 is it a worm drive? and do I need to remove it? Question #3 does it come out from the bottom (lift front end up)?

While on steering, the plastic spacer on the steering shaft below the steering wheel, Question #4 How do you keep that in place? my new one wants to come out all the time, glue? screw?

I want to get an after market carb and I notice they all say that the choke is different, Question #5 Can I just change the choke shaft from the old carb or modify the new to fit, anyone have any luck with these carbs?

I have an ignition switch with no key, I have filed an old key to the stage it will go in a little bit and start the engine, Question #6 can you get keys or replacement switch's? and the recess mounting is a pain, Question #7 Has any one flush mounted the Ignition switch instead? I am not to worried about staying original.

And lastly (for now) I have fitted head lights and was wondering Question #8 do I connect up to the ''L'' on the VR or run a fused wired to the battery from the light switch?, Question #9 how do most of you guys with lights do it?

I am sorry if most of these questions seem dumb to you guys but I just needing a little guidance here from you Cub Pro's

[J-Mech]

Go download the manual....
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4642

It will show you how to rebuilt the whole machine and answer a lot of questions.


Why do you need a new carb? The originals are rebuildable.... Most often guys replace carbs because they can't figure out how to clean the old, or they find out it didn't have a carb problem at all. So..... what's your reasoning?

You can get replacement switches. Or keys, depending on what you need. Is it an original switch?

If you use the "L" terminal, you have to run to the switch with the wire first, then to the lights, but you can pull power from there, yes. Make sure to fuse it.

How do most of us do it? The way it was wired originally..... If you need a diagram, you can view it here:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35

[KiwiUSA]

Yes I have the manual, I should have checked that for the steering but it does not say how that so called bearing (Nylon spacer) stays in....thanks for the input there.

I know how to clean a carb or rebuild it but I draw the line at having to drill and fit bushings because that's what mine needs (worn throttle shaft) unless I try the old washer trick I read about (thanks for the input there

And I know what the wiring set up in the manual says but I was wondering about the VR, manual says nothing about that set up.

And yes it is the original switch and I have seen different keys on e-bay for the same year.

[J-Mech]

It's just an IH key. Or should be.... nothing special there. Can be had at any Case IH dealer.

All you have to do is insert a bushing into the throttle shaft bore. It's not fussy.... no machining required.

Lights..... yes, you can add it to the "L" terminal, or wire them up just like they would have been factory. Either way, they will work.

As far as the bushing on the steering tube, I'd change it over to a bearing. How does the old one stay in? Press fit. If it works out, it's wore out. The up and down movement on the shaft you were talking about doesn't help either.

[KiwiUSA]

Thanks for the quick reply, I will probably go with the std lighting set up then as it is simple. My Nylon bearing is new and the shaft tube is not damaged, that's why I could not figure out the loose fit...I will look into a sealed bearing for it. As far as the carb is concern I will take it off and have another look at it, I presume there is a bushing there to remove henceforth ''No machining needed'', also I then got to find a new bushing.

[Yosemite Sam]

It would probably be best to remove the column and (at least) take it apart, clean out all of the old hard grease and replace any worn parts.

Be sure to check the "bearing cups" I have seen them worn so badly that they are broken up into tiny pieces and distributed throughout the gear box. I almost never take a steering gear apart without replacing the cups.

Once you put it back together and adjust it, all or almost all the play will be gone.

There is a sponge type looking ring that goes between the steering wheel and the upper bushing, that should help hold the bushing down, if your bushing is very loose you can hit the side of the upper tube just enough to knock it out of round a little, and the bushing will be tighter in the hole. And yes, it does come out the bottom.

Any aftermarket carburetors that I have (bought or sold) come with 2 choke shafts, one style works on our Cubs and the other doesn't.

To the best of my knowledge all of the IH built Cubs (with a factory switch) use the same key. I believe some of the aftermarket switches use the standard INDAK key.
Keys for factory switches can be bought from out sponsors or on ebay.

Trust me when I tell you that you DO NOT want a surface mounted key!!! I can't tell you how many keys I have broken in the ignition switches of my 1X2/3 series tractors. I can't keep from hitting my knee on them and once they are bent, if you continue to use them they WILL break of in the switch. Fortunately for me, I have a friend who is a locksmith and he makes a new ring of keys for me about once a year for very little money.

I personally hook up new to me lights the same way they would have come new. I believe they (on a 1X4/5) get their power from the negative terminal on the charge indicator and are fused before the switch. Consult a wiring diagram to be sure.

Good luck with your project.

[KiwiUSA]

Thanks Sam for the info, I will remove the steering shaft and rebuild it, good idea on the shaft tube concerning nylon bearing.