Possible creeper failures

[Alvy]

Just throwing this out there because I'm needing to pull the rear on my 122.

Loaded it back on the trailer yesterday to come home from the show. Noticed I had to mess with the creeper lever quite a bit to get it to travel and finally it would travel in low. Loaded it up. It hasn't moved on it's own since I rolled it off the trailer.

Drive shaft is spinning while running obviously although inspecting very closely I can't make the input of the creeper turn while in high or low, engine off and in gear and pushing forward or reverse, basically the creeper is in a neutral state, outside spiral pins in the drive shaft are good. I'm thinking that either I sheared the drive pinion roll pin that connects the pinion to the reduction housing input or there's something going on with the shift collar inside. Just looking to see if anyone else has had this happen. I can feel the detent happening with the creeper lever but the detent is external so nothing may be going on inside. I took off the extension and can not move the lever too much further than the normal swing.

Also, quickest way to do this is to pull the rear I'm assuming after getting the coupler pin out and pull rear and creeper together?

Thanks, Mike

[Mike McKown]

I had a spirol pin break once. Tractor would pull itself in low range but not high. It was working strictly on friction.

[Jeff in Pa]

If the pin hole for the creeper is wallowed, I can repair that but hope it's just a sheared spirol pin.

[Alvy]

Thanks for the responses Mike and Jeff. I will keep both in mind.

[darkminion_17]

Shifter yoke pin is prolly broke,split the tractor so your potty mouth is at a minimum BTDT

[Cub Cadet 123]

I had the same thing happen on my 73, Mike. I got absolutely no movement out of it. Found out that the shifter pin just fell out. Tried it again and same result. Finally, put a larger pin in and doing fine thus far.

Cub Cadet 123

[Yosemite Sam]

Yeah, sounds like a spiral pin, probably not a serious problem, just a lot of work to fix.

I think pulling the trans-axle is probably the easiest.

[olds45512]

I agree with the others about removing the rearend to do the repair. In my opinion the easiest way to remove the rear end from a nf is to remove the engine and disassemble the clutch and then roll the rearend out with the driveshaft still connected, I know it might sound like alot of extra work but I can do it in about 30 to 45 minutes and it sure beats trying to laying on the ground to try to get the pins out of the driveshaft. You could easily spend that same 45 minutes trying to get the pins out of the rear coupler and be no further ahead if they don't want to cooperate.

[Alvy]

Well I tackled this today. Had to remove the fenders, seat support, spring assist, rear lift. Got lucky as you can beat the drive shaft roll pin out of the creeper from the right side, easy. Learned something though after I undid the brake linkage and rolled the rear back. Took the creeper off and found the roll pin for the shift collar had backed it's way out and creeper was in "neutral" position. Roll pin Wasn't broken. I pulled the drain plug for the creeper, brake cleaned everything out, put my punch through the drain hole, lined it all up, red loctite so it wouldn't happen again, and drove the pin back in, money. Glad I took it out though because it was chocolate milk in there. All back together and good to go. Creeper lever probably worn in the roll pin area but I think I got it for another 50 years. Thanks for the suggestions and glad it wasn't anything expensive, total cost to fix, zero dollars

[darkminion_17]

your welcome

Did you have the tranny all back in then realized the brake lever was in the wrong spot?