PTO problem with my CC 2186

[SJSharker]

Good morning, I am new to the forum and not sure if this is where I should be posting requests for help with my problem. First of all, I have a 2004, CC 2186. I purchased it last year from an older friend who took very good care of it, but it was in storage for a few years. New battery and gas, it started right up.

Planning to do a tuneup before the season, but used it for a little landscaping help before. PTO was engaged during the work and there was a little grinding and small amount of smoke from the engine, now the mower blades do not disengage (with or without the switch being PTO switch on).

Looked at the different forums and thought it was the bearing on the clutch, took it apart and found that bearing on the clutch is working fine, but the bearing in the pulley wheel (that drives the blade belt) was seized up (numbers on it were 6206DU on the outer portion and 6206-18 on the inner).

I tried replacing that bearing, but it appears to still engaged (although it is harder to tell because I have the deck and blades off, but there is no shift to the engine). It does not appear to be the switch because I unplugged the clutch from the switch and it continued to spin.

Is my line of thinking correct? Should the wheel be spinning with the blades/PTO (switch pulled up) engaged and the wheel not spin when the switch is down (off)?

The next question... is it worth taking the time to continue to search for the malfunctioning piece or just bite the bullet and buy a new clutch and pulley wheel setup?

Next question... should the clutch have what looks like (and please bear with me I am not a mechanic) wear marking on the two sides (each side is a circular shaped metal piece with long ovals cut outs in circular levels). Sorry if it is more helpful, I can add pictures to this post later.

Thank you for any help you can give because I am now closer to the last straw I know to try.

[Sam Mac]

Post some pics of what your dealing with maybe we will see something simple. Otherwise if you decide to replace it I've used these guys for PTO's and have been happy. This is what your tractor calls for.

http://xtremeope.com/cub-cadet-917-3...FQxahgod9oEGfA

Some good info about clutches

http://xtremeope.com/faq/

[FrankF3]

Like Sam said a picture would help. Without a belt on the PTO the pulley MAY continue to spin if the air gap is out of adjustment. I would double-check the air gap to see if it is set correctly.

[Sam Mac]

No air gap on the style clutch. About the only thing that will make it spin when turned off is a bad outer bearing. They have a blade brake to stop the spin when off. Clutch should look pretty much like this one.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by SJSharker

Good morning, I am new to the forum and not sure if this is where I should be posting requests for help with my problem. First of all, I have a 2004, CC 2186. I purchased it last year from an older friend who took very good care of it, but it was in storage for a few years. New battery and gas, it started right up.

Planning to do a tuneup before the season, but used it for a little landscaping help before. PTO was engaged during the work and there was a little grinding and small amount of smoke from the engine, now the mower blades do not disengage (with or without the switch being PTO switch on).

Looked at the different forums and thought it was the bearing on the clutch, took it apart and found that bearing on the clutch is working fine, but the bearing in the pulley wheel (that drives the blade belt) was seized up (numbers on it were 6206DU on the outer portion and 6206-18 on the inner).

I tried replacing that bearing, but it appears to still engaged (although it is harder to tell because I have the deck and blades off, but there is no shift to the engine). It does not appear to be the switch because I unplugged the clutch from the switch and it continued to spin.

Is my line of thinking correct? Should the wheel be spinning with the blades/PTO (switch pulled up) engaged and the wheel not spin when the switch is down (off)?

The next question... is it worth taking the time to continue to search for the malfunctioning piece or just bite the bullet and buy a new clutch and pulley wheel setup?

Next question... should the clutch have what looks like (and please bear with me I am not a mechanic) wear marking on the two sides (each side is a circular shaped metal piece with long ovals cut outs in circular levels). Sorry if it is more helpful, I can add pictures to this post later.

Thank you for any help you can give because I am now closer to the last straw I know to try.

Grinding and smoke lead me to think the bearing went bad and the clutch spun against the blade brake and burned that up. The pulley should not spin when turned off. You said you tried to replace the bearing, did you actually change it?

[SJSharker]

Yes I was able to change it, but it does the same thing. Just spins... should I put the deck back on to see if it doesn't spin with the belt on? I will get pics in a little while... thank you.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by SJSharker

Yes I was able to change it, but it does the same thing. Just spins... should I put the deck back on to see if it doesn't spin with the belt on? I will get pics in a little while... thank you.

I would say put the deck/belt back on to see if it stops with no 12V power applied, and turns as it should with 12V power applied.
You might get lucky.

[SJSharker]

I will give it a try... Thank you

[SJSharker]

Yes, and it is the bearing you can see in your picture that I replaced...

[SJSharker]

Sorry it has taken me some time to get back to the mower... lots of jobs to get to...
Please see the attached pictures of the clutch in parts where you can see the rubbing inside the clutch... from the picks did the frozen bearing burn out the clutch too?
Thank you for any advice.