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  #1  
Old 05-29-2016, 02:06 PM
MattinmMichigan MattinmMichigan is offline
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Default Timing a freshly rebuilt k321

I am trying to time my rebuilt engine but nothing seems to be working right .how do I find the right stroke on these things . I have no problem with big engines but this little bastard is kicking my but . Nothing seems right and I don't know if the act is stewing me up
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Old 05-29-2016, 02:23 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Have you got the Kohler K Series Service Manual...??
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Old 05-29-2016, 02:35 PM
MattinmMichigan MattinmMichigan is offline
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I think I have it I am trying to get the ignition timed right I think I have it at least I hope . I am rolling the motor over and when the points break they make my digital ohm meter go to open line . I have 301 with the head off and I think I made sence of everything when exhaust valve opens when air fuel charge enter and when compression and combustion go
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Old 05-29-2016, 02:48 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattinmMichigan View Post
I think I have it I am trying to get the ignition timed right I think I have it at least I hope . I am rolling the motor over and when the points break they make my digital ohm meter go to open line . I have 301 with the head off and I think I made sence of everything when exhaust valve opens when air fuel charge enter and when compression and combustion go
What the heck are you talking about?

Here is how you time them:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33461
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:30 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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Did you line up the timing marks when you reassembled it?
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Old 05-29-2016, 08:49 PM
MattinmMichigan MattinmMichigan is offline
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If I knew what I was doing I would my be on here confusing the heck out of us . what I was trying to figure out is the compression stroke and making sure that I was breaking the points at the right time so that I have fire so it will run . My ohm meter is digital so it is either measuring resistance or o.l. Open line what I hope is that as I was turning the crank it was measuring resistance and when it hit the sp mark it broke the points which my ohm meter goes to o.p. . Is that right ?
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Old 05-29-2016, 09:21 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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If I'm following you correctly, you are trying to set ignition timing. If the points break when the mark on the flywheel is in the window on the air shroud, you should be right. Search for static timing here on the forum, also check the resources section, probably a service manual for that engine here also.
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Old 05-29-2016, 09:38 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattinmMichigan View Post
If I knew what I was doing I would my be on here confusing the heck out of us . what I was trying to figure out is the compression stroke and making sure that I was breaking the points at the right time so that I have fire so it will run . My ohm meter is digital so it is either measuring resistance or o.l. Open line what I hope is that as I was turning the crank it was measuring resistance and when it hit the sp mark it broke the points which my ohm meter goes to o.p. . Is that right ?
I'm old school.....I grew up on engines that had points and condensers. I do not use any ohm-volt meter or timing light when I set the points on a Kohler K series engine. Best you can do is put the ohm meter or timing light back in the tool box. The cam has a lobe that opens and closes the points. It fires the spark plug once during the 4 stroke process (power stroke). On old Briggs engine the points are open and closed of the crank. It fires the spark plug twice during the 4 stroke process.

It is easier to set points by doing it my way. While watching the points-points push rod I will rotate the crank until the points are open are far as they can open. Using a feeler gage set your points so they have a .017 to .018 gap. Your Kohler should start and run.

You can do one of the following:
1. Run as it is
2. There is a slot in the points that you can fine tune your Kohler while the engine is running.
3. Find max point gap and change the thickness of the point gap.


This is the way I have done it for almost 50 years.
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  #9  
Old 05-30-2016, 07:18 AM
MattinmMichigan MattinmMichigan is offline
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Thanks everyone you guys are great . This is first k series rebuild I do a couple more I will be a lot better at it , ya know practice makes perfect ...
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  #10  
Old 05-30-2016, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk View Post
I'm old school.....I grew up on engines that had points and condensers. I do not use any ohm-volt meter or timing light when I set the points on a Kohler K series engine. Best you can do is put the ohm meter or timing light back in the tool box. The cam has a lobe that opens and closes the points. It fires the spark plug once during the 4 stroke process (power stroke). On old Briggs engine the points are open and closed of the crank. It fires the spark plug twice during the 4 stroke process.

It is easier to set points by doing it my way. While watching the points-points push rod I will rotate the crank until the points are open are far as they can open. Using a feeler gage set your points so they have a .017 to .018 gap. Your Kohler should start and run.

You can do one of the following:
1. Run as it is
2. There is a slot in the points that you can fine tune your Kohler while the engine is running.
3. Find max point gap and change the thickness of the point gap.


This is the way I have done it for almost 50 years.
Merk you sound just like my dad. He sets them on .020 and away they go. However, the 128 we keep at my house developed a nasty habit of trying to kick back for the last year or two. Set them with an ohm meter this spring and the problem went away. He's been around Cadets since '68 and that was the first time he had any dealings with setting ignition timing that way. FWIW, he sets ignition timing on gas tractors by ear. After doing it once, I kind of like setting the timing with a meter myself. As long as the engine cranks easily and runs well, either method should work.
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