Engine Test Stand?

[sawdustdad]

Has anyone fab'd a test stand for starting and running a K series engine. Jonathan I suppose you've done this, right? Pics? thoughts? Advice?

[J-Mech]

I had one that I acquired, but recently gave it away. I didn't like it was short and sat on the ground. Plus, when running the engine, it vibrated around a lot. I'm going to build another one soon..... but this time it will be different. Probably be an area dedicated for bolt down and run it. Wiring, fuel and such will be set up so that you don't have to have a tank installed or anything. Far as it goes, it doesn't take much to make a stand. The old one I used was just made out of angle iron. Two pieces made rails that the engine bolted to, and two angle iron bars under them welded perpendicular to give it stability. Looked like this: # only straight. Anyway.... I've thought more about building a dyno/ load stand that anything. I usually just assemble the engine on a bench, then set it in the frame of a tractor to run it.

[olds45512]

I've thought about making one from one of the parts tractors I have, my plan was to move the axle all the way forward and then cut the frame 6" behind the engine and put legs and handles on it so it could be rolled around like a generator. I would mount a tank in front of the handles and just use a battery with some alligator clips for power. Or cut it right behind the dash and just put alligator ends on the factory wires, this way the hood could be left on so it could sit outside.

[Berwil]

The "Tinker Twins" built one a while back. Like most of their builds, it looks well thought out.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=Engine+stand

Bill

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by olds45512

I've thought about making one from one of the parts tractors I have, my plan was to move the axle all the way forward and then cut the frame 6" behind the engine and put legs and handles on it so it could be rolled around like a generator. I would mount a tank in front of the handles and just use a battery with some alligator clips for power. Or cut it right behind the dash and just put alligator ends on the factory wires, this way the hood could be left on so it could sit outside.

I really like this idea. I have a 147 frame that I could use. It has the front axle and wheels. Just need to secure the drag link so the wheels don't flop around.

[J-Mech]

147 frame's are hard to come by. Maybe you could find a Cub in the junk pile somewhere and use it? I hate to see a 147 cut up with that special frame.

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

I really like this idea. I have a 147 frame that I could use. It has the front axle and wheels. Just need to secure the drag link so the wheels don't flop around.

I would use a wide frame from a 1x8/9 tractor, this would give plenty of room to bolt in any single cylinder Kohler.

[Sam Mac]

I just clamp the engine to my shop table, rig up the wiring and fuel and let it rip. Pic of a D600 and a CH22

[Mike McKown]

I've run several Vanguards on a table with the engine plate clamped down with C clamps. Works well and no trouble.

If you're a jack of all trades and want something permenent and work on all of them when it comes to Cubs, I believe I'd start out with a Cyclops/82 engine plate so any Cub engine could be bolted to it using factory locating holes. I know the holes for all engines are not on all plates but they could be easily transferred to the plate.

[Nightow1]

Is this what you are looking for?
Rescue11 built this for me a few years ago for fixing his grandfather's 2284.
Will take most engines , has a drain so you can drain oil or clean engine, i built a control center to test engines on it.
Caster wheels, and storage on the bottom.