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#1
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So I decided to keep my 2182 and go through it this winter and see what I get done. I ran a compression test and everything was 180psi or better, so I figured this engine should have some life left in her with 1400 hours. Have to replace the cork gasket and with the 3 point hitch and rear pto, it's going to be a bit more involved than most.
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#2
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Got the seat, fender and gas tank off. Hard to believe I spent a ton of quarters getting this power washed. Going to push it in the driveway and try again at home I guess.
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#3
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Wow that 3 point hitch and pto are a pain. Have to remove a bunch of pulleys and braces. I don't think I'm going to do the sgt braces. The 3 point hitch has some massive steel bolted to the frame and the rear axle, so I don't there there will be any twisting. Unless I find the pump brackets are broke.
I have some issues with the rear pto shaft. There are couplers on each end and they are worn out. The holes are elongated on one side and the spline pump side is sloppy. Not sure what to do yet. May have to get something fabricated because the couplers alone are over $200! |
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#4
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Finally got to the rear end cover and got it off. The oil didn't look bad at all. Now I realize to get the axles out, I have to go inside the differential to pull the c-clips off. I thought it would be a little more open! Oh well. That'll be tomorrow.
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#5
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Of course, the steering cylinder started leaking and it's a welded sealed unit. There's a guy on here that can rebuild them but by the time I ship it back and forth and pay him, It's one of those things were spending a little more will get a new one. So I'm springing for $170 for the stupid cylinder. It's leaking at the seal where the shaft slides in and out, so not much I can do about that.
Also ordered new ball joints for each side of the steering cylinder and tie rod ends from McMaster. Figured while I have it here, may as well do it. I noticed some slop in the ball joints when turning. |
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#6
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Although the brake pads seemed to have a lot left on them, I was out of adjustment on the brake rods. I ordered the pad material from McMaster. From all my measurements, I needed the 5/16" material.
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#7
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Looking good! Don't forget how it goes back together, If I don't get my 1811 together soon I may have to start asking "where did this come from?"
It's only been apart for a couple weeks, and counting......
__________________
2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
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#8
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Looking good on your project.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#9
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Excellent start. Keep at it and it will be done in no time at all.
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http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=42646 70, #1 cart. Brinly Cultivator. Some wheel weights . {125, 126, 2072-Sold~regrettably, 2284 60 inch Haban 325 deck., 451 snowblower, 2182-60 inch Haban 374 deck- "Money Pit", 401 Haban 54 inch dozer blade- rebuilt, 1440-down the road, Another 2182 for parts. Another 2284 for parts. 450 blower. 1812-sold, 2072 w/ Haban 374, and a 2182#3 w/ Haban 325}-------> All SOLD |
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#10
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Yes, that is a crappy design that they have on the rear pto.
Here is the shaft. DSCN1121.jpg Here is the front coupler. One side is an 11 tooth spline and the other is machined out for a 7/8" shaft. DSCN1126.jpg DSCN1125.jpg Buy this one here and have one side machined to 7/8" http://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.ax...eywords=1-2985 The coupler that attaches at the rear is just a 7/8" solid IIRC. http://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.ax...words=1-1563-d The shaft is 7/8" x 5" DSCN1122.jpg Don't forget the spiral roll pins DSCN1131.jpg Let me know if you any of the bearing numbers. I replaced every bearing in the rear pto on the 982 I'm doing now. Good luck. That will be an awesome machine when you are done.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
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