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#1
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I know this has been talked over ad nauseam on the forum and the diesels are hard on the driveline, but I am looking for advice on the driveline as it pertains to the rear PTO. While doing the driveway over the last few weeks, I noticed the driveline has been getting louder and louder on my 1572. Since I was in-between multiple storms I just rode with it. Now that I have a breather, I spent last nite to take the driveshaft and clutch for the rear PTO off of the 1572 before it rattles itself apart. Luckily I did, the safety wire must have snagged something and broken. It was found amongst the oily grass clippings on top of the rear-end. When I get the parts and have it fixed, I'll throw it back on.
A little history on my 1572, it has had the rear-PTO installed since it was new back in 1987. It also has had this section of the driveline repaired or replaced at least 3 times. One time this repair was done at the dealer, who told me one roll started walking out and as it gradually walked out, it was shaving a groove in the tunnel on the bottom of the fuel tank. So time has come again to service this section. There must be a better design than what is used. Having the weight of the rotor of the rear PTO clutch spinning on this shaft with the pounding away at it as it runs is like having a remote flywheel. There has to be a better way. Any ideas for absorbing a rotating loading shock on this shaft? ![]()
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1989 - Cub Cadet 1772 1987 - Cub Cadet 1572 w/Rear PTO & Cat. 0 38" Lawn Sweeper #196483 42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349 45" 2-Stage Snowblower # 196364 48" Haban Rotortiller Rear PTO Driven #190356 54" SnowBlade with hydraulic Angle #196376 60" Haban Mowing Deck #196374 |
#2
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Do you use the rear PTO??
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#3
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Yes, a couple times a year - at least. Tilling with the 48" Haban and clearing the field with the Rotary cutter.
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1989 - Cub Cadet 1772 1987 - Cub Cadet 1572 w/Rear PTO & Cat. 0 38" Lawn Sweeper #196483 42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349 45" 2-Stage Snowblower # 196364 48" Haban Rotortiller Rear PTO Driven #190356 54" SnowBlade with hydraulic Angle #196376 60" Haban Mowing Deck #196374 |
#4
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Only suggestion I have is to add a harmonic balancer on the shaft running to the PTO. Room might be an issue, but it would absorb some of the shock load. Only other suggestion would be to remove the shaft when not in use.
Still running rag joints on the front shaft right? |
#5
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CV joint conversion from a 1864 would help.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#6
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The OP is talking about the short shaft that runs from the back side of the pump to the rear PTO, not the main drive shaft. To the best of my knowledge Oak has more info on this area. I'll PM him to check in on this one.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#7
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Jonathan, I converted it about 2 - 3 years ago to run CV joints, but it had problems with that rear PTO shaft a couple of years before I did that. Space is pretty limited between the backside of the pump and to where the clutch is situated. I was thinking about a harmonic balancer too, but there's no room in there. Don't forget to take the rock shaft and the fuel tank into account too.
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1989 - Cub Cadet 1772 1987 - Cub Cadet 1572 w/Rear PTO & Cat. 0 38" Lawn Sweeper #196483 42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349 45" 2-Stage Snowblower # 196364 48" Haban Rotortiller Rear PTO Driven #190356 54" SnowBlade with hydraulic Angle #196376 60" Haban Mowing Deck #196374 |
#8
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10-4, I did not catch that.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#9
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It's a poor design in my opinion. Too many pieces are in the shaft and are pinned together. Here are the pieces just to make the short shaft from the rear of the hydro to the bearing assembly that the pto is mounted to.
DSCN1131.jpg Here is what the shaft looks like. The pins wear the couplers so that the holes get egg shaped and then the shaft hole gets worn and the pin gets loose and the safety wire is the only thing holding it in place. DSCN1121.jpg I have purchased all new couplers from Surplus Center but the one that attaches to the rear of the hydro is splined on one end and needs the other side machined out for the short shaft. I have talked to Jeff about this a year or so ago but never went any further. DSCN1145.jpg DSCN1146.jpg I often wondered why the shafts couldn't be welded or at least leave on pin in just incase you hit something and needed a shear pin
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#10
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You don't need a shear pin.
I'd just weld that shaft together. That would help. ![]() |
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Tags |
rear pto |
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