Model 100 tie rod

[timds]

I was on my 100 today and when I went to turn the tie rod end broke off on the right side. What could cause this? Is my steering binding up or could it just be from age?

[john hall]

Probably just age. I assume you are talking about the ball just came out of the socket. If not, post a pic of the damage. Do yourself a favor and check the other 3. Cadet tie rods are too lightweight. Yes they last a long time, but in the old days dealers stocked them by the fistful, common sale at parts counter--right up there with spark plugs and air filters. Pains me to say it but Deere used the next size up and got better results.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by john hall

Probably just age. I assume you are talking about the ball just came out of the socket. If not, post a pic of the damage. Do yourself a favor and check the other 3. Cadet tie rods are too lightweight. Yes they last a long time, but in the old days dealers stocked them by the fistful, common sale at parts counter--right up there with spark plugs and air filters. Pains me to say it but Deere used the next size up and got better results.

I think xtreme sells an upgrade kit with beefier ones and a little thicker rod.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by timds

What could cause this? Is my steering binding up or could it just be from age?

The tie rods are just worn out.

You can get new tie rod ends about anywhere mower parts are sold. TSC, Farm and Fleet, or other "supply" stores.

You can order new ones from McMaster Carr, which is probably the best choice (made better, not the "cheapest" choice). They carry heavier duty ones, or you can upgrade to a heim joint and it will last much longer. I suggest whatever style you choose, get the heavy duty ones with a grease zerk on them.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=1atxtli

Originally Posted by Gompers

I think xtreme sells an upgrade kit with beefier ones and a little thicker rod.

He does not.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

The tie rods are just worn out.

You can get new tie rod ends about anywhere mower parts are sold. TSC, Farm and Fleet, or other "supply" stores.

You can order new ones from McMaster Carr, which is probably the best choice (made better, not the "cheapest" choice). They carry heavier duty ones, or you can upgrade to a heim joint and it will last much longer. I suggest whatever style you choose, get the heavy duty ones with a grease zerk on them.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=1atxtli




He does not.

My bad. Just for 82 series and up. Though not sure what the difference is between them and the older ones.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Gompers

My bad. Just for 82 series and up. Though not sure what the difference is between them and the older ones.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html

They're different. For $64 I'd pass anyway.
Besides, that's only the tie rod between the two front tires. The part that gives more trouble is the drag link from the steering box to the front tire. It has to turn both tires. The tie rod between the two only steers the one tire. So, half the load.

[clay1811/44c]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

The part that gives more trouble is the drag link from the steering box to the front tire. It has to turn both tires. The tie rod between the two only steers the one tire. So, half the load.

Good point. So maybe heim on the drag link and a good grease able on the tie rods if I want to save a few bucks.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by clay1811/44c

Good point. So maybe heim on the drag link and a good grease able on the tie rods if I want to save a few bucks.

I suppose so..... but I keep extra's on the shelf because it's a common wear item. I'd just use the same on all parts, so as not to stock more than one type of replacement. Where the load is less, the part will last longer. Pretty simple repair, and not all that expensive. You would only save literally a few dollars. Not worth it in my opinion.

[IHinIN]

As a temporary fix, you can tighten up the joint with a few hammer blows to the end of the joint to tighten it up enough to hold the ball in the socket. I performed that “temporary” fix about 8yrs ago on my 100. Lol. It’s getting all new joints when I reassemble it.

[timds]

Thanks for the info guys