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#1
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Hi Guys,
I'm back with an issue and need some direction. Cutting the grass earlier with my 2082 and I ran into some driveline issues. As I approached the mailbox I turned into the driveway to spin around and head back the other direction and the mower stopped in the middle of the drive, no hydraulics at all. Motor was running but had a high pitched metal on metal sound near the driveshaft. Got off, removed the tunnel and realized I could free spin the driveshaft by hand, it wasn't engaged either in the motor no the rear end. It doesn't feel like the shaft is broken (at least out in the open). It's almost like the end of the driveshaft broke off inside the motor and that's what's causing the metal on metal noise. Where does the shaft mesh with the motor, is it in the coupling or further back inside the motor? I'm assuming I'm going to have to split the rear end off to make a whole lot of progress here. I'm not really looking forward to this. Any pointers on where to start or which direction to take is greatly appreciated
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#2
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Sounds like the splines stripped in the CV joint. Can you turn the pump by hand? You shouldn't need to pull the rear. Just remove the 4 bolts from each cv joint and remove the shaft.
__________________
Travis 1993 Cub Cadet 2064 1988 Cub Cadet 2072 1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20 1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301 1961 IH Cub Cadet O 1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122 JD 2155 w/ 175 loader |
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#3
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You just need to remove the the driveshaft and the cv joints. The drive shaft is NLA from Cub Cadet but the parts for the cv joints are still available new. If the shaft is worn then you can buy a used one and have Jeff lengthen it.
__________________
1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#4
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I was hoping that was going to be an option. I'll start there. I didn't attempt to spin the pump by hand, I'm assuming I'd have to get on the rear portion of the PTO shaft and try to spin there?
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#5
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Ok here is the latest;
I got the driveshaft taken out this morning. I'll throw up some pictures and show you what I'm dealing with. It looks like the driveshaft splines are shot. They're twisted and worn down on what looks to be exactly half the length of the splines, where the forward CV joint meshes. Now, if the shaft were pushed in towards the motor further (only way I can think to do this is to move the entire rear end forward which seems impossible), the front CV joint would push further onto the splines and they mesh up perfectly, no slop or slippage. Where do I go from here? New driveshaft I'm assuming, with or without modification from Jeff in PA. I think I saw last night he machines new, longer, slip sections for the CV joints that allow the splines to mesh further - I'm assuming those would be in order also to prevent this from happening again. Thanks again guys, I just want to mow the damn yard ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#6
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Jeff can take another used shaft and cut it, machine and weld in a piece to make a correct length shaft.
__________________
1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#7
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That driveshaft is done. I would guess the other end may be OK for parts but the sliding spline end is trashed.
Looking on parts tree, you need a driveshaft 23.9 " long https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-...00/drive-line/ item 20 If you find another CV driveshaft, I can shorten or lengthen it to correct length. Can you measure yours to see if it's just over 23-7/8" long ? In the PM, you asked about the splined couplers I make. That would be the one on the pump (rear ) that the driveshaft bolts to. I make that splined portion a little longer for more engagement. Jeff |
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#8
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Thanks to those who sent PM's and for your response Jeff. I'll pull a tape on that tonight after work, in the mean time I'm on the search for another driveshaft. I'll keep you updated.
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