Snowplow setup

john hall · #1 07-30-2018, 10:41 PM

OK, got the snow plow/dozer blade on the 124. Now how do I get any real use out of this contraption? I "graded" dads driveway with it and patched a wash in the farm road. I am finding spreading gravel is not easy. We ordinarily grade it to the center of the driveway, set the blade straight (7' wide) and go backwards really fast, spreads it out nice and smooth. Obviously the Cadet is very slow in reverse. Also, this sucker HATES loose ground. Not to mention it will get itself stuck in wet grass. Thinking I need to drop tire pressure maybe--These narrow tires don't impress me much. I imagine I could get 40lbs of water in each tire, that would help, but will it be enough to do any good? I could rig up a 2-300lb weight rack on the back--got some suitcase weights collecting dust. Of course enough traction will get the roll pin or the clutch. Any way, looking tips on how to use this thing and what to expect out of it.

Oh, are the depth skids just for plowing snow on concrete and asphalt? Regarding snow, I only want to clear off the apron in front of my garage, getting too old to shovel (old/lazy--same thing).

Before you offer advice, I do NOT live in flat-landia, there are hills everywhere here

Pics are before the blade was properly installed. AS you can see I had the Cadet on 2" blocks to set the lift rod.

darkminion_17 · #2 07-30-2018, 11:01 PM

John,
Stick with what you have been using. More weight helps pushing or back dragging.
What you may have to use is one of these rear rakes, but I still had to add weight.

J-Mech · #3 07-31-2018, 12:31 AM

John, spreading gravel with a CC and front blade isn't easy. Takes a while to do, and yes, going backwards is the key, just like when using a big blade. If you have a long driveway, it's better to use the tractor. I've spread a lot of gravel with mine, and maintained some driveways for me and others with it, but it is a lot slower than a big tractor.

I have ran those narrow ag tires before on several tractors. Never had a major issue with spin unless it was pulling a plow. I promise, you don't need 2-300# of weight to make a difference. #100 will make a lot of difference. #150 is better. But on those 4.5" rears, it doesn't take as much. Chains make a big difference on snow.

Don't drop the pressure below about 10#. On a bias ply tire, it will split the sidewalls. BTDT. You should know that from the big tractors. Might get away with 8#.... but 10 is about right. The tread should pretty well sit on the ground. Oh, a bit of the corners might be just a tad off the ground on concrete, but that's it. But no "squat" like a radial.

Lew is right. Rear blade is better for gravel. Or in his case, a rake.
Show off......

cooperino · #4 07-31-2018, 08:38 AM

Brinly makes a pretty affordable box scraper. I know your looking to do the job with what you have but I would think a box scraper would work much more efficiently for that kind of work.

x.bhamcb · #5 07-31-2018, 10:48 AM

The first winter I plowed with my 149 I had weights and chains. It did ok, but would spin once in a while. By the second winter I had loaded the rear tires. I never even put the chains on and hardly ever spun a tire. I think it ended up being a little over 100 lb of liquid (washer fluid) between the two rear tires.

J-Mech · #6 07-31-2018, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x.bhamcb

I think it ended up being a little over 100 lb of liquid (washer fluid) between the two rear tires.

I doubt it. You don't say what size of tire, but the 23X10.50-12'S only hold about 5 gal. If you filled them completely full, you might get 7 in each, which would get you almost 100#, but when using liquid ballast, the valve stem should be exposed to air when in the 12 o'clock position.

bllwnkl · #7 07-31-2018, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

but when using liquid ballast, the valve stem should be exposed to air when in the 12 o'clock position.

Huh? Why am I not understanding this?

J-Mech · #8 07-31-2018, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bllwnkl

Huh? Why am I not understanding this?

I have no idea.....it's a pretty obvious statement.

Do you know what we mean by liquid ballast?

bllwnkl · #9 07-31-2018, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I have no idea.....it's a pretty obvious statement

Yes, pretty obvious. My valve stem is exposed to air at every position of the clock! What are you saying?
Are you saying that when installing liquid ballast there should be some air left inside the tire and not all liquid?

J-Mech · #10 07-31-2018, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bllwnkl

Huh? Why am I not understanding this?

This tire is full of liquid ballast. In this case, beet juice I believe. I prefer liquid calcium because it's such a heavy liquid. Windshield washer fluid is basically water, so it is about 7lbs/gal. Beet juice is like 9, maybe 10. Liquid calcium is almost 12lbs/gal. But it is corrosive when exposed to outside air, so some guys don't like it. As long as you don't have a leak, it's fine.

Anyway, back to my pic.... so, this tire has liquid ballast up to about the blue line. When the valve stem is at 12 o'clock, (arrow) it is above the water and exposed to air. Not filling the tire full serves a couple purposes. 1.) It allows the pressure to be adjusted. 2.) It gives the tire the ability to compress, or gives cushion. Remember, liquids cannot be compressed. Filling the tire full would be like riding on a solid tire. And 3.) It allows you to check the pressure. There are special gauges for fluid, but why bother? Any tire shop that fills tires know this, and won't fill them full. There is a tire size chart that gives liquid capacity by tire size.

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