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#1
11-27-2018, 04:23 PM
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Clutch removal issues on a 108
Hello, I am having difficulty removing the roll pins from the rear coupling on my cub cadet 108. I don't want to hammer away at the roll pins without without getting some advise first. I'm not sure if the force of hammering will damage the creeper drive. Also, I am perplexed with how the coupling is currently secured to the shaft as I can move it about 1/4 inch back and forth vertically on the shaft. I figure there must be some kind of major wear on these roll pins for this to happen. The whole thing is a complete disaster as the clutch assembly is missing the throw bearing, bushing, tenser spring and spring spacer. Anyway, I figure maybe use a propane torch to heat the coupling and then knock the pins out (if I can figure where they are centered on the drive shaft)? Any insight would be appreciated.
Ross 
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#2
11-27-2018, 04:48 PM
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The coupler is attached to the shaft with "spirol" (or coiled) pins. There is such a thing called a Spirol Pin Punch, used to knock them out. However, a regular 1/4" Pin Punch can be used to drive them out also. First try squirting some penetrating oil (ie: PB Blaster, Kroil, etc) around the pin to see if this loosens it. You may have to soak it overnight. If the oil doesn't bear fruit, then get the "fire wrench" (torch) out and heat the area to release the bond. Then try pounding the pin(s) out. Normally, these pins are held in firmly, and not much hammering is needed to drive them out.
Try your luck and report back.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#3
11-27-2018, 05:20 PM
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The spiral pin may be semi sheared, preventing you from driving it out. Yes, you need to support this before you start beating on it. On a Quietline, I am able to get a jack stand in to support the shaft. Don't know how that might work on your model.
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#4
11-27-2018, 06:10 PM
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x2 on soaking it and supporting it.
Don't just go to beating the hell out of it, but of course I'm sure you know this. If there is any way you can rig up something, the best way would be to press them out somehow, but you will have to get creative. You can tap them out, but try to be as gentle as possible with her.
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"Equality is about giving everyone an equal chance, not about giving everyone an equal result."  1971 126 w/ Brinly Sleeve Hitch, Plow, Discs, and Cultivator  http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=50159
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#5
11-27-2018, 07:03 PM
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The Michael Jackson method works better when supported...
If you can determine where the slack in the shaft is, the drive shaft or the creeper input shaft, then knock out the appropriate pin with no slack and go from there.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#6
11-27-2018, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
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#7
11-29-2018, 02:35 PM
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Ok It took many taps and lots of penetrating oil, but I managed to remove the the spirol pin at the creeper end and take the clutch out. The pin on the drive shaft is still stuck in there along with the coupler. However, I'm not as concerned with removing that pin at the moment. What is now apparent to me is that I have a lot more issues to deal with than just replacing the drive plate (which I have a replacement part for) and the clutch disk. the wear on the hole for the spirol pin on the creeper gear input shift renders the unit unusable in it's current state. the clutch unit is a mess and will need lots of work and replacement parts if it is to be used again. My thoughts are a bit split at this juncture. Not sure if I should completely remove the creeper and go with a clutch setup for a straight 3 speed (with I'm thinking may be the most cost effective approach and best use of money (given the state of my 108) or fix the drive input shaft on the creeper and the corresponding driveshaft. Anyway, I have time to make my decision. I still have engine work to do, a steering column to take the slack out of and brakes to fix Lots of work to keep me occupied this winter. below are some pictures of the damage to the clutch unit and creeper.
thank you, Ross
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#9
11-29-2018, 05:21 PM
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Thank you towton. That sounds both cost efficient and effective. I'm guessing I should cross drill the coupler to the approximate the enlarged holes on the shafts and then tap the threads in both the coupler and shafts? I want to maintain as much strength as possible in this point of the drive system. Among other things, I plan on using this unit (my 108) to drag an angle iron up and down our private road in the spring.
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#10
11-29-2018, 06:10 PM
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I would do away with the creeper, it is not made for pulling, only to slow down the tractor when snow blowing and tilling.
PBJ can weld that hole shut and drill a new one; he has done it for me.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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