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#1
07-25-2010, 08:11 PM
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782 mag 18 No charge?
Ok, I have searched all old topics, no luck.
I have a 782 gas with a magnum 18. It has a small rounded corner regulator which i belive is the problem. to start about 3 weeks ago, my pto clutch would not engage. so i put rouchly a 1/2 turn in each nut and tightened the air gap. upon doing so, whalah, i got PTO. when mowing that day i moticed that the amp guage was pointing towards D. after i was done, the tractor was dead and would not start, so i charged the battery. the next cutting, the tractor started fine. mowed grass, and towards the end it started missing and spitting and sputtering. i was done so i just parked it. today, i cleaned the ground and then cleaned the regulator wires with electrical contact cleaner. it would not run properly, just very spitty and sputtery. I decided to try an experiment, and I put the regulator off my 782D on my 782G. they were different shaped but had similar pins. Tractor fired up instantly and ran pretty smooth. I think it was a little missing because of all the gas in the cylinders, but it smoothed out. then, the thing would not shut off! i had to pull the choke to make it shut off. I then played this small game back and forth. I even loosed the air gap and that didn't help, and now the darn PTO won't engage. whats the issue? 
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#3
07-25-2010, 08:31 PM
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If your ammeter is fluttering on the low side it,s probably rectifier/regulator. if the gauge is moving at all, probably not in the wireing . Check the stator with a meter you sould have 29-32 volts AC at full throtle keep in mind thats AC voltage so set your meter accordinly! If the stator is working properly then plug it back in and check the rectifier/regulator for the proper DC voltage its the center terminal it should have around 13.5, I'll bet it does not. the regulators are $50-$60 bucks. Set the air gap on the PTO with a feeler gauge you probablt blew the fuse by messing with it.
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"Good Dogs Never Live Long Enough!" Casey Angeletti
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#4
07-25-2010, 08:41 PM
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This may help............ Charging
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#5
07-25-2010, 09:04 PM
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I went through this same problem last year on my 1806. The beginning of the season it needed jumped. Then after 2-3 Weeks the PTO would not restart after 30-40 minutes of mowing, then if I shut the motor off it would not restart.
It turned out to be the voltage regulator. It wasn't letting it charge the battery correctly. This in turn burned a wire inside the connector on the back of the key switch. Which also smoked the starter solenoid. I could jump the solenoid to start the engine but the key switch would not shut it off. The burned wire was really hard to see. And for some reason the new key switch was the same part number and the plug fit correctly but the posts were wired in the switch different. So I had to do some rewiring to make it work, which needed done anyways because of the melted connector. JOE
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Sold everything but one. 1211-snow pusher, cab ,54 inch plow, loaded tires (all 4) Gilson wheel weights, X-trac fronts- soon to have power steering and dual hydraulics
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#6
07-26-2010, 10:10 PM
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Ok so i put on a new regulator, and i have a fuse that runs off my key switch, i took that out and it was burnt. in the mean time i attempted to hot wire that instead of having a fuse, and it literally began smoking within second of doing so and melted the jumper wire.
still no pto with a dead fuse in there, when i have the tractor running, the amp guages goes to d with the lights on, and does not move when idling and stayed still upon hitting pto switch. I can't mow gras either. any more help?
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#7
07-26-2010, 10:36 PM
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Check the connector on the key switch. Look it over real good. Look down inside holes were the posts on the switch go into. If you see any melted plastic or burned wires, that is your problem
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Sold everything but one. 1211-snow pusher, cab ,54 inch plow, loaded tires (all 4) Gilson wheel weights, X-trac fronts- soon to have power steering and dual hydraulics
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#8
07-27-2010, 06:21 AM
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Well, the problem is now interesting.
First, the 782 did NOT roll off the assembly line with a M-18 in it. Second, the M-18, electrically, is NOT a drop in replacement for the KT-17. Some wiring modifications are needed to properly run this motor.  NOW, what was done to accomplish this....???? How is the motor electrically wired to the 782 wiring harness..??? 
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#10
07-27-2010, 08:19 AM
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OK....I can help. BUT....I need to know the Chassis Serial Number for your 782. The 782 had two different wiring diagrams.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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