149 differential gears

[Banman]

Changing the new to me hydro-fluid in the trans/diff and noticed some odd marks on the ring gear (grooves on the teeth) and bluing on the transmission output gear.
If this was a car I'd be concerned but with a Cub I first need to ask is this normal machining marks on the ring gear or evidence of damage?
Is the bluing a sign of overheating in the past of from when the gear was made?

[steelsmith]

I could be wrong but the grooving looks like machingmarks, they turn the O.D. and face, then cut the gear teeth. the blueing on the gear teeth is from the heat treating.
only the teeth get harded so they come out of the oil bath after cooling blue.
If there are no missing teeth this is my long way to say they look good to me .

Joe

[dodge trucker]

Nope all junk... Need another transaxle? I just happen to know where there is one hahaha.....(hint hint)
New axle seals and fresh relined disc brakes too
And it came from a 1650. A cork gasket, rear cover gasket and a load of hytran and it's good to go
(Brain fart) I might have put the new cover gasket on, don't remember.

I'm on project overload, wound up getting rid of remnants of tractor it was destined for.... And that's before I hit a damn deer and had to add rebuilding the front of my truck to that list

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by steelsmith

I could be wrong but the grooving looks like machingmarks, they turn the O.D. and face, then cut the gear teeth. the blueing on the gear teeth is from the heat treating.
only the teeth get harded so they come out of the oil bath after cooling blue.
If there are no missing teeth this is my long way to say they look good to me .

Joe

couldn't have said it better myself.

[dodge trucker]

Yeah what I see in the pix looks good, just trying to mess with the guy a bit (but I do really have an extra one here!!)

[Banman]

Good to know all is well -- there was only a little bit of water entrained sludge on the upper part of the case -- easy to wipe out with shop towels.

The bad news is that the fluid was 2" below the fill plug
I should've checked it sooner -- the PO was so convincing about his love and respect for these ol' cubs that I took him at his word that all was well...

The bolts on the rear cover seemed barely more than hand tight and I'm sure that was (at least one of...) one of the seep/weep sources...

I couldn't find a torque spec for the cover bolts in the service manual -- standard torque seemed like it'd crush the gasket more than was needed...

Gotta add, I was impressed how thick the cover plate was -- wish the dana 44 cover plates on my Scout were that thick!

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Banman

Good to know all is well -- there was only a little bit of water entrained sludge on the upper part of the case -- easy to wipe out with shop towels.

The bad news is that the fluid was 2" below the fill plug
I should've checked it sooner -- the PO was so convincing about his love and respect for these ol' cubs that I took him at his word that all was well...

The bolts on the rear cover seemed barely more than hand tight and I'm sure that was (at least one of...) one of the seep/weep sources...

I couldn't find a torque spec for the cover bolts in the service manual -- standard torque seemed like it'd crush the gasket more than was needed...

Gotta add, I was impressed how thick the cover plate was -- wish the dana 44 cover plates on my Scout were that thick!

\
Now don't get all in a hurry to over torque the bolts.
Check the flatness of the cover, they git puckered in from fellers using an impact like on the dana or udder covers.
invert it in a open jaw vice and whack it with a suitable hammer to make it flat or even more than flat, as the bolts will pull it flat.
Then snug them evenly but not over tighten as you say, it will crush the gasket, you can always go a bit more later if needed.

[Banman]

Originally Posted by ol'George

\
Now don't get all in a hurry to over torque the bolts.
Check the flatness of the cover, they git puckered in from fellers using an impact like on the dana or udder covers.
invert it in a open jaw vice and whack it with a suitable hammer to make it flat or even more than flat, as the bolts will pull it flat.
Then snug them evenly but not over tighten as you say, it will crush the gasket, you can always go a bit more later if needed.

Don't you worry -- 15 years working on OH-6's and Hueys, this ain't my first rodeo -- put my machinists 6" rule across it while I had it on the bench -- surprised at how perfectly flat it was.
Sitting two full daze now w/out a drip so I might be gaining on it!

What is the "cork seal" I've seen mentioned in other threads regarding a leaky hydrostatic...?

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Banman

Don't you worry -- 15 years working on OH-6's and Hueys, this ain't my first rodeo -- put my machinists 6" rule across it while I had it on the bench -- surprised at how perfectly flat it was.
Sitting two full daze now w/out a drip so I might be gaining on it!

What is the "cork seal" I've seen mentioned in other threads regarding a leaky hydrostatic...?

cork gasket goes between the hydro and the diffy,
Sorry,
didn't mean to talk down to you, but we never know ones experience or the lack of it, it's always a crap shoot

[Banman]

Originally Posted by ol'George

cork gasket goes between the hydro and the diffy,
Sorry,
didn't mean to talk down to you, but we never know ones experience or the lack of it, it's always a crap shoot

didn't take it as being talked down to at all -- more about saving folks typing time...
I appreciate knowing what the cork seal is! So between the hydraulic motor and the diff? That would be a small piece of work to replace...

Working on aircraft also means I'm spoiled by years of using good tech data!

The Cub service manual was probably meant for someone who'd gone to the factory school as a checklist/reminder rather than fully complete instructions...

fer instance -- I've rebuilt this engine but I still haven't located the hole you'd see an "S" or "T" in while setting the timing on my Kohler -- heck I can't even find the data plate to confirm it's really a 14hp and not a 12hp...
I'm guessing there's a cover plate or two blocking everything that the service manuals don't say "remove this panel for access to..."