1882 SGT drive shaft replacement

redduece07 · #1 08-14-2019, 09:09 PM

So, I was mowing with my 1882 when all of a sudden, without warning it started squealing like a stuck pig and stopped in it tracks. My first reaction (for whatever reason) was to shove the go stick wide open! This led to nothing more than me leaning over the steering wheel bracing for a 12 o'clock wheelie that never came.... Which led to my next step in troubleshooting, to shut it down. I quickly dismount and after some choice words of encouragement I begin the supersonic drag of a dead hydrostatic to the shop.
After arriving at the place of tools, I start the engine. Its shrieks and screams can only be described as what I would imagine a rabbit would make if it were possible to step on one's tail. "Well, probably a good time to check the hydro fluid." I think to myself. I do and it's low of course. I pull the fill plug on the rear end and oil shoots out, so it's not that low. After starting the engine once more I realize the screaming rabbit is somewhere near the back of the engine. I pull the tunnel cover off and after a thorough inspection I see nothing out of the ordinary. "Heck, even the drive shaft seems to turn effortlessly? Well, maybe a lil jerky. Wait! Why is the drive shaft turning?!" My lightning fast wit exclaims.
Well, turns out that the CV joint hub stripped the splines on the shaft years after the factory grease gave up the ghost. Then I discover that the 1882's driveline is made of unobtainium. Which brings this overly drawn out post to its point:

I am going to use a 2000 SERIES DRIVESHAFT.
The original CV shaft is 24" (23.9) and the 2000 series Cush drive shaft is 28". So, if I remove 4" of shaft all should be well.

Here's a pic!

Sam Mac · #2 08-14-2019, 09:29 PM

Pretty much what you plan to do. I'd measure between the engine and the pump mounting surfaces. Then you have 2 options. Machine the weld off one end of the 2000 shaft, cut to excess tube and re-weld or cut the excess out of the tube, slip a piece of 5/8" shaft inside it then drill it and pin it with some spirol pins.

CubDieselFan · #3 08-14-2019, 11:11 PM

Jeff, can take a driveshaft from a 1440, 1641, 1863, 1864 and extend it to the proper length. With proper greasing then it will last a long time.

Jeff in Pa · #4 08-15-2019, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CubDieselFan

Jeff, can take a driveshaft from a 1440, 1641, 1863, 1864 and extend it to the proper length. With proper greasing then it will last a long time.

If I can help you out, let me know.

I can shorten or lengthen. If you supply a driveshaft, I could cut off your bad end and put on a good end. That way you don't have to "move backwards" to a cush drive.

Jeff

redduece07 · #5 08-15-2019, 10:47 PM

I actually got it installed today. I just shortened the cush drive shaft by 3 7/8" and it bolted right up. I really appreciate the offer though. Were there problems with the cush drive set up? I had to get it fixed in a hurry as it is the only mower I have right now.
Here is the shaft installed:

Jeff in Pa · #6 08-15-2019, 11:15 PM

Good to see you're up and going again.

It's just the CV style is an upgrade over the cush drive. ( and the cush drive is better than the rag joint ..... )

Sam Mac · #7 08-16-2019, 07:20 AM

The 2000 / cush drive works just fine as long as the engine is not rubber mounted. It doesn't work well with the diesels because the motor mounts allow the engine to move and then the shaft slips out of the coupler. I have one in a 1641 and it has been trouble free.

redduece07 · #8 08-16-2019, 07:30 AM

Thanks again Jeff and everybody who helps. I wouldn't have got it fixed this quick and easy without the forum! I ll hold on to the old shaft just in case things dont hold up in the long run.