![]() |
PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!
|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
I decided to move this from the new members section to here as I continue my ongoing struggles to resurrect this abandoned cub 147.
Fair warning, this is long. It's a total up to speed in one post. So for several weeks of on off working I couldn't get the thing to fire. I of course tossed the sparkomaticglowpluggamajigger in the scrap pile and ordered up a full ignition kit, plug, wire, coil and points. Put them on, set the points best I could by the manual and nada. It cranked ok but really wasn't trying to fire. Then the glass sediment bowl started leaking at the on off cock. I went ahead and replaced the bowl and got a new ebay carb too since mine was looking not so great. So fast fwd a few weeks and I get time to install the bown and carb, put in a little more gas and give her a shot again. It would cough and spit and sometimes turn quicker and then slow down. It was weird. I then noticed that the exhaust was sucking in between puffing out. I know that's not normal and my thoughts went to stuck or bad valve. I tried a little marvel mystery oil hoping that might free it and then like a dope realized you can see the valves from the access port in the side of the block. (go easy on me I'm a flathead virgin) Once opened I could see the valves were moving fine (it's also how I learned about the weird pressure release system the kohler has. Pretty clever! At work it dawned on me that if it's not firing the piston moving down on the combustion stroke could possibly exert enough pressure on the exhaust valve that it could suck it off it's seat and cause the exhaust suck. All hope was not lost. I had also noticed quite a lot of "blowby?" coming from the valve access port and the little dipstick down low by the points was jumping out and then sucking back in when cranking. Another odd thing. All this weirdness led me to eventually pull the head to inspect things. Much to my surprise everything looked pretty fresh. The intake valve was clearly new and the piston was too as was the gasket. Piston was stamped with a +030 so I guess this motor was bored 30 over. Not great news but not the end either though I reckon a sleeve is in the next rebuild. I'll keep an eye out for a spare block or motor in the meantime. There's another complete "non running" 147 near me for 200. I might get it for parts, there's also a 149 for 250. (curse you all for suggesting this!!!) Anywho, I put it all back together and same issue. It was like it wanted to go but just wouldn't. Even with starting fluid, just coughs and sputters. I decided to give the points timing one more shot, I used the video from Isavetractors youtube and still nothing. So I gave the service manual one more go and after a little more cranking and fiddling with the carb, blades BAM! She came to life! A little more carb fidgeting and she fires every time and purrs. Idles nice and slow without struggling and revs up great too! So once it was running great I started messing with the drive. Since I got it the hydro lever was stuck hard and I wasn't sure if it was like that because the motor wasn't going or it was broken. With the motor running it was still stuck fast. I lubed the heck out of it and just worked it. Little by little it moved more and more until it moved full range. I also had pulled the fenders and lubed the mechanism under the center cowling. It's moving much better now but it's still a little stiff. Onward to the next problem! Motor running and trying to engage the drive. Initially it launched like a drag car, I stopped it and backed it up with a little less lever. Then I decided to jack the rear wheels off the ground. Once up and in drive it spun the tires for about 10 seconds and then they slowed to a stop. Tried the lever back and forth and nothing. No drive at all. No odd noises, Just occasional whining of hydraulic pumps/fluid when it did move, no grinding just nothing. Let it sit a few minutes in neutral and it drives again but not long. Sometimes it pulls hard sometimes it just barely spins the tires. And thats about where I am with it. I got socked with something that put me in bed for a few days and I read what I could while I was lucid. I plan to try to clean the 2 valve things on the top of the hydro unit and see if that helps. I also popped the hatch off the diff housing and inspected the ring/pinion etc and it all looked stellar. Fluid looks nice and clean but it's definitely lower than the fill plug. I'm trying to locate some hytrans locally in hopes maybe thats why it's not driving well. I can't imagine it's anything too serious considering how robust I read these trans/rear ends are. One question I do have is I read there are 2 different hydro units that may have come on these, the sun...something and another one. I'm hoping someone here can help me identify it. The tag on the rear end is gone so the only ID tag it has that I see is on the motor. Once again thanks for all the help so far. I'll get this old beast going! |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Nice work getting it running again! As far as I know, there was only 1 hydro unit available, the Sundstrand.
__________________
125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Sunstrand series 15 type "U"
(Now Sauer/Danfoss) http://files.danfoss.com/documents/s...l/bln-9646.pdf ![]() Change the oil and filter, it will be fine Hytran is good but any hyd fluid that meets the specks will do fine. Do not use 303 hyd fluid as it will not flow at colder temps. oil requirments on page 12 of manual link TSC makes a good substitute oil. |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Sweet tractor!
|
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have always had a interest in a 147. I think they are a cool tractor.
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
SUNSTRAND! That was it! Wow, my dazy brain right now. I can hardly see straight let alone think so thank you gentlemen for the kind replies and info! And thanks ol'George for that link. It has a lot of info I needed on that hydro! You are both right about the pump, I reread the thread I was referring to and they were discussing oil filters and someone mentioned 2 hydro units but then I saw he was saying in general not on the 147 specifically. That was my mix up. Knowing this will help a ton in getting her good as new.
I'm headed out today to get a filter and fluid and I hope to be running it around the yard later. The filter is yellow and matches the tractor and is a authentic IH CC filter so I guess it is possible though unlikely that it's the original. I know people have a tendency to neglect and not maintain mowers and tractors like that. The whole tractor does seem like it has low usage. The only real wear I see is the steering linkages are pretty sloppy. Speaking of steering... WHY IN THE WORLD did IH think it was necessary to interference fit the steering wheel soooooo freakin tight on these? My goodness, even on my cars and trucks that "require a puller" I have been able to muscle them off. It's not like they ever just fall off on your hands. Did they really think with the bolt there that thing was going to accidentally pop off? I've never in 30 years of carss seen a wheel on that tight. Frankly since the wheel was a bit botched up anyway I wound up cutting it off and making up my own solution with a spare car sports wheel of the same diameter with a thankfully thicker rim. I always hated old wheels with thin rims. I don't ever feel like I have a good hold on them. At least problem solved! One thing I forgot to mention before is that the tractor seems to want to move more if the throttle is down low. The more throttle you give it the less it will try to move. We'll see later today! Again thanks for the help fellas! |
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Help I've been slimed!
Opened the diff case to take a look and do a fluid flush. Fluid was pretty dark and smelled pretty burned. Once it was empty I found some nasty glop clung to the bottom of the housing. I cleaned it all out and blew it all down with HPA. Everything inside looks to be in excellent shape though. I had a dilly of a time tracking down a new filter but then scored one at a little shop that is apparently a cub dealer. I'll be sticking that and the new fluid into it tomorrow and I might pop the relief valves out and see if they are moving freely. Fingers crossed it moves under its own power finally! |
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
Great work on a very nice tractor. The 147 is the only NF with a modified frame to fit the larger 14 hp Kohler. I'd definitely pick up the other 147 down the road if it is in your budget. However, something tells me already that it will not sit as a parts tractor. So, before you put the rear cover back on and fill it with hydraulic fluid, now would be a super time to install a 3 point hitch, if you have one. If you wait until after you put the cover on, then it may cause your rear to leak. I've been successful installing a 3 point hitch on the back of a cub without it leaking only when I jack the rear end up quite a bit.
Looks like that cub has found someone to give it the attention it has long deserved!!! Cub Cadet 123
__________________
Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA.
|
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks for the kind words Cub 123. I planned a mini backhoe build for it down the road after the FEL or I definitely would look into a 3 pt hitch.
Oh and also the news of the night. I topped off the fluid and put on the new filter, fired her up and SHE LIVES! Drive was whiny and sluggish at first as it worked the air out of the system but once it bled through the drive was rocking and rolling! Tons of torque and power. Even with both fronts flat it had no issues moving around. (both fronts are rotted beyond repair, I was just waiting to make sure this thing wasn't toast before I sunk a couple hundred into new tires for it) I went ahead and ordered the fronts as of this post. I'll grab the AG rears next paycheck. The turfs are holding for now. It was definitely a unique experience trying to operate it just perched atop the transaxle since I have all the fenders and seat off at the moment. Not the safest way to ride but "I too like to live dangerously Mr Bond" After the test drive around the yard just to be sure it was good to go I shut it down, let it cool and gave it a serious degreaser bath and pressure wash. Not only was the filter original I think the dirt and gudge was vintage 1970 too. Now she's nice and clean and ready for paint prep and paint. I'm hoping to knock that out this weekend. I think I have a scheme picked out. Fingers crossed it looks good in the flesh. More updates to come! |
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks for the great pix and descriptions of your new toy.
I'm really glad it found a good home!
__________________
61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
|
![]() |
|
|
Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC
All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.
Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.