1610 hydro problem

MFP8055 · #1 04-29-2009, 08:21 AM

I'm experiencing weak forward movement on my 1610 after it has operated for around an hour. Here are the full symptoms:
- When cold, there's a noise coming from the hydro unit when in motion
- After warm-up, everything is fine with lots of drive power
- After an hour, it's difficult to go up hills and there is a slippage or lurching in forward motion. Backing down to neutral and then forward helps, but drive power is still low.
The tractor is obviously a little old, and I doubt the hydro unit has ever been serviced. It has new Dexron fluid, new rear end oil, and a new drive belt.
Is there any way to repair or replace the hydro unit? How about adjustments? I have an owners manual, but it's not a lot of help. Thanks from a new forum member.

67hydro · #2 04-29-2009, 09:19 AM

Look in the tech library for info on repairing your trunion slot on the hydro.

I dont know much about dexron but does it foam???Hytran is the only recomended fluid,doesnt foam.
I belive,depending on how cold it is,that the hydraulic fluid is "thick" at start up,possibly causing the whine/noise.
Im kinda stumped on the after warm up/an hour it dont want to go up hill and loses power.
I have to go to work otherwise Id spend more time writeing but good luck and I know there are othershere that will be far more helpful than I !!!
Jason

I re-read the post,Im not sure how well I understand the hydro on a 1610!!! Is there a seperate place for hydro oil and rear end oil??? Just how old is the tractor?? sometimes I need to take my foot out of my mouth!!!!

By the way Welcome and glad to have ya here!!

Matt G. · #3 04-29-2009, 09:42 AM

The 1610 isn't a garden tractor and doesn't have the same rearend that the garden tractors do. A lot of those lawn tractors rears do that. My dad's 382H (predecessor to the 1610) would stop working when it got hot, and the dealer told him to put 90 wt. gear lube in it to overcome the internal leakage, and it was supposed to get him by a few years. It's been going for about 15 years like this now. It's a bit noisier, but it still works.

HOWEVER, the first thing I would do is put the CORRECT fluid in it and see if that works. ATF is NOT the correct fluid to use.

MBounds · #4 04-29-2009, 09:48 AM

67Hydro: That 1610 is a 16 hp CCC variant of the IH 382H Cadet Lawn Tractor IIRC...It's a hydro but not a Sundstrand like those found in the Cub Cadet Garden Tractors. I believe it does use Hy-Tran though...

Myron B

MFP8055 · #5 04-29-2009, 11:15 AM

I'll pick-up some hy-tran fluid and try that. Any thoughts on the hydro unit being re-buildable?

Matt G. · #6 04-29-2009, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MFP8055

I'll pick-up some hy-tran fluid and try that. Any thoughts on the hydro unit being re-buildable?

Yeah...You could probably buy several more operable 1610s for what it'd cost to rebuild the trans that's in there.

MFP8055 · #7 04-29-2009, 03:22 PM

You're probably on the money (pun intended) with that observation. The 1610 is perfect for what it does, yet the cost of repair could be high. I can get a brand new Series 1000 for $1600. I've got an old Bolens for heavier stuff (tilling, snow blowing), but it's not a great mowing platform. The hy-tran fluid will be put in this weekend, and maybe I'll try the heavy oil after that. I've got nothing to loose at this point.

#8 04-29-2009, 06:03 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-NICE-CUB-CADET...A35%7C294%3A50

I don't know where you live but you need to think out of the box. Here's a very cheap solution to your repair problem. If they are too far away then wait for a closer deal.

Now know that these are not meant to go up and down hills, I had to learn the hard way too. Take Matts advise.

Scott

MFP8055 · #9 04-30-2009, 08:37 AM

My father and I have bought most of our lawn tractors at auctions, and have done pretty well. I picked-up the 1610 that way about 16 years ago, and it's been great. I may end up doing the same if I can't get the hydro unit functioning properly again. The new stuff I looked at is junk by comparison. Thanks for the lead, but it's a bit too far from upstate NY.

#10 04-30-2009, 09:43 AM

I was just suggesting that as an example of the deals out there. I was also suggesting that you swap trans out not replace the mower you have but you will now have extra parts that you'd not otherwise have for MUCH less than if you buy it a piece at a time. look for one with a bad motor and a known good tranny for say $100, now what you have is a spare starter, wheels/tires, deck, and what ever else you might find important.

Now for the tranny- it's was explained to me that these have a by-pass valve in them and when they get hot and over exerted the fluid is allowed to by-pass the drive thus the lack of power. Up hill does the tranny seem to shutter like it just just just can't make it?

Scott