1650 Parts Mounting hardware for Quietline hood side panels and 44A mower deck cover

DustyD212 · #1 09-23-2019, 04:29 PM

Hi all.

I am looking for the mounting hardware for the hood side panels to my 1650. If anyone has spares and would care to sell them to me I would appreciate it. Or if someone can send me photos of the hardware and its sizes, I can go find what I need to mount my hood sides, I know wing nuts were used on one of the holes on each side, what the other one a standard bolt?

Same thing with my 44A mower deck belt cover, need the bolts to secure that cover. I'm guessing that's probably just a bunch of standard 1/2 nuts and bolts or around that size, to secure it. Please let me know so I can secure it with the correct hardware, again photos are helpful.

Next, I need the left bulb socket (holder) for my tail light and two bulbs. I can most likely just get the bulbs at napa, if someone can send me a photo of what the bulbs look like, it would be a big help. I do need that bulb socket, if someones got one floating around they can sell me, I would greatly appreciate it. I am looking for the original red Bargman rear lenses. If someone see's this post in the future and has a set they wish to sell me, please let me know. In the meantime I picked up a pair of the correct lenses NOS, except their amber, which is good enough for now, got them from darkminion17 on eBay.

Lastly I need the hitch pin for my model 4 cart. Does someone have one or can send me a picture of what it looked like so I know what I'm looking for. That is something I can just go to Tractor supply and get, nothing special correct?
Attached are a few photos.

Thanks to everyone for the help. It is appreciated!
Long live the Cub Cadet

ol'George · #2 09-23-2019, 05:48 PM

5/16 - 18 nuts for the deck cover. you can also use lock washers under the nuts. --1/2" is way too big unless someone welded bigger studs on the deck.

The tractor side covers use a simple screen door spring across the top in the front corner of the panels with small "S" hooks on each end of the spring. Slide a fuel hose over the spring, allow about 3-4" of the ends of the spring exposed to keep the spring from vibrating making an annoying noise.

The back of the covers need 2, 1/4-20 bolts put in from the back side of the dash with nuts on the outside to make studs for the covers to slide onto, then just retain the covers with 1/4" wing nuts.

All of this is available @ yer local HWD store for a couple of dollars.

DustyD212 · #3 09-23-2019, 09:34 PM

Awesome, thank you.
I picked up a quick release pin for my cart and I got two cheap aftermarket rear lights. I will remove the bulbs and sockets and use them on the original tail lights with the OEM lenses I purchased. Things are coming together now.
When I replace the engine mounts I will also do the upgrade so I don't have to pull the engine again for a very long time. I appreciate all the help I'm receiving.

ol'George · #4 09-23-2019, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DustyD212

Awesome, thank you.
I picked up a quick release pin for my cart and I got two cheap aftermarket rear lights. I will remove the bulbs and sockets and use them on the original tail lights with the OEM lenses I purchased. Things are coming together now.
When I replace the engine mounts I will also do the upgrade so I don't have to pull the engine again for a very long time. I appreciate all the help I'm receiving.

Do check the aluminum oil pan for stripped pan to cradle bolts.
More than not, fellers find them stripped,--
but even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes, so you might get lucky.
If some are stripped, most just replace the pan with a good cast iron pan from ebay. (easiest)
others use heli-coil or thread certs
But we will cross that bridge if it happens.
Do bolt the cradle to the pan when welding the cross piece as the welding will cause it to pull out of square and da bolts no gonna fit

oh,
make sure the bolts are long enough but not too long or ya gonna bust out the blind holes and it will leak.
It is pretty much covered in the articles.

DustyD212 · #5 09-23-2019, 10:44 PM

👍
I got pretty lucky with this machine. I'm the documented second owner and its got 1100 original hours on it. The family purchased it in early 1980. The son had it the last 17 years and he did regular maintenance on her, he didn't use it all too much. So aside from things that have gone from age, its in real good overall condition. The rust it does have which is primarily on the top of the hood and wheel wells is from using it with a plow on it. The side covers have rust from sitting in a leaky barn for 39 years but their not to bad either.
Their is a piece of flat sheet metal down below the frame just behind the engine below that cracked in both front corners where it mounts up, so its hanging from the back, that will have to be addressed. But yea I love this machine, built like a tank.
I will begin going thru it thoroughly over the winter.
Brief video of it for those who haven't seen it. I made another video focused in on the engine. It purrs, no smoke either.
https://youtu.be/mPhIKP3kZfg

ol'George · #6 09-24-2019, 08:55 AM

Sounds like yer neutral position needs a fine adjustment,
or you left the blades running when you got off
Most fellers don't use the clutch/brake on a hydro, except for starting but that is strictly personal preference.
You do know, you are having too much fun.

DustyD212 · #7 09-24-2019, 05:23 PM

👍😉 You are right.
Yea my first true Hydro, just getting used to it. All of my lawn tractors were gear driven.
My old timer buddy is going to give me a hand sandblasting the unit over the winter and taking care of the checlkist I have. Hopefully by next spring, she will look and run like the day it came off the assembly line.
I am going to give him a bagger and front dethatcher with wheel weights for his John Deere 360. Thats how we help each other out.