CC 124 having some electric issues and I need help.

Brandon966 · #1 01-12-2020, 09:43 AM

I’m fairly mechanically inclined, but not so good with electrics.

My 124 when I bought it started and ran just fine off of the battery. Then the battery went dead and I replaced it. It started a few times like normal then that battery went dead. I can jump it and it starts and runs fine, until lately. Lately it’s a 50/50 shot whether or not it will actually start.

Yesterday I went out to jump it with my little jump box and it started and ran, then shut off after about 30 seconds. It would not start back up no matter what I tried. Previously this week it ran fine for an hour or so after jumping.

I’m assuming something electrical. Where do I start and how do I test for the failed part? I have a multimeter, and can borrow a test light if needed.

R Bedell · #2 01-12-2020, 09:57 AM

Sounds like a Charging Issue. It could be (a) the Voltage Regulator, or (b) the Starter Generator itself.

You'll have to narrow it down.

Do you have a Voltage Meter (either a VOM or DVM)??

green407 · #3 01-13-2020, 11:14 AM

I know this is for a Farmall but the principles are still the same

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=II-6nOw28J8

Make sure you're running your engine fast enough.

sawdustdad · #4 01-14-2020, 08:31 AM

If you are confident it's electrical, then skip to the check spark section. The following is a general "does not start" trouble shooting process.

Assuming it is cranking over briskly, it's likely either a fuel or spark issue. Less likely is lack of compression.
This would be my trouble shooting process, working from easy to difficult to check and most likely to least likely causes. This is really applicable to any small gas engine.

Crank the engine and see that air is being pulled into the carb (hold you hand over the carb opening) and see that it is puffing out the exhaust. If not, then skip to #4.

Try some starting fluid, see if it starts. If so, then it's a fuel issue.

Remove the bottom plug from the carb bowl and fuel should run out. If not, then either the float is stuck or the fuel is not flowing to the carb. Rap the carb bowl with the handle of a screw driver to see if you can free up the float. Sometimes all it takes is a little persuasion.

If there is fuel in the carb and it won't run on starter fluid, then proceed...

(An engine that gets more and more difficult to start and run over time is usually a fuel issue--debris in the carb gradually reduces flow of fuel and finally stops it. Often this problem is diagnosed early in the process by choking the engine as it is running--if that improves running, then it's a safe bet that you've got fuel supply issues.)

check spark.
1. Remove plug and lay it on against a head bolt so it is grounded, crank and watch for spark. if not...
2. clean and adjust the points. Use fine sandpaper, adjust to .020 gap. Observe points opening and closing as you crank the engine.
If you've got spark skip to #3.

No spark
2a. with ignition "on" check for +12v at the coil positive terminal.
2b. remove points wire from coil. Check for continuity between that wire and the block/ground as you rotate the engine. Should be zero resistance for most of the rotation, then open momentarily as the points open.
2c. remove all other wires from coil. Check resistance of coil, should be 5 to 10 ohms across the two terminals. Put all wires back on coil. (points, condenser to neg. terminal, and positive/power to the positive terminal.
2d. Replace plug check for spark again.
2e. replace plug wire, check spark again
2f. replace condenser.
2g. Still no spark? Check points again. verify they are closing and opening as the engine rotates...be sure plug is grounded when checking for spark...

3. Got spark, but still no start.
3a. crank and spray starting fluid into carb. If it starts this way, it's a fuel problem. Rebuild carb, clean fuel line, etc. make sure tank is vented through cap.

4. You've got spark, engine turns over quickly, and starting fluid doesn't work, you don't have compression or intake is blocked somehow.
4a. remove valve cover and observe valve operation while cranking. Intake and exhaust valves should move up and down.
4b. Remove head and check valves for debris keeping them from closing. Observe piston moving up and down. Check cylinder for severe scoring/broken rings, check for head gasket not sealing...

Billy-O · #5 01-14-2020, 09:58 AM

Basically, a good battery fully charge should show 12.8 volts DC and holding. The charging system should produce 13.6 volts DC when active.

Since you know little about electronics and you have a meter..... Maybe we, the members here on OCC, can walk you thru this. I just don't know whether to take baby steps or long strides. Do you know enough to set your meter and measure the volts as I mentioned above?

Brandon966 · #6 01-14-2020, 07:54 PM

Thats good help above guys thanks.

I know enough electric stuff to set the meter and test for 12v power. Tomorrow am I'm going to see if I have spark. I do have air sucking my hand in the intake and exhaust has air coming out. It will not start on starting fluid. I'll run though some stuff in the am and report back with findings.

sawdustdad · #7 01-15-2020, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon966

Thats good help above guys thanks.

I know enough electric stuff to set the meter and test for 12v power. Tomorrow am I'm going to see if I have spark. I do have air sucking my hand in the intake and exhaust has air coming out. It will not start on starting fluid. I'll run though some stuff in the am and report back with findings.

80% probability it's just dirty points.

cooperino · #8 01-16-2020, 10:45 AM

First thing I would check is that you get battery voltage to the coil with key on.

Since this started out as an intermittent problem, I would suspect the problem could be in corroded or broken Ignition switch or a broken or near broken wire in the harness.

If you have power to the coil I would check the points next. If the points are clean and functional test the coil.

jbrewer · #9 01-16-2020, 08:29 PM

Yep ...I think Sawdust is right on the track! Take the points cover off... run a point file or fine emery cloth in there for a couple swipes, then try again.

Then you can spend 20 min getting that lower points cover screw back in :-)

finsruskw · #10 01-17-2020, 06:42 AM

Take a close peek at the back side of the ignition switch, look for obvious signs of green crud around the connectors. Wiggle the connectors lightly while cranking and see what happens.

Dirty and/or corroded contacts in the starter switch, solenoid and V/R exhibit these kinds of issues. Include light switches and later model PTO switches as well.

If this machine has spent LOTS OF TIME out in the elements, especially high humidity, don't be surprised if one or more of the wires comes loose in your hand.

Lots of crud means high resistance which leads to high temps that results in melted plastic connectors and insulation.

If this machine has suffered PO "Custom By Cobble Craft" "fixes", nothing should come as a surprise.