Cub 2086 Kawasaki no spark, no fuel question

[jpswift1]

I finally got around to fixing my 2086 that I got last Spring. It just turned 800 hours and the owner said the engine was "blown up" and a replacement Kawasaki FD620 engine was going to be way too expensive, so he put it up for sale. It's a decent machine with a 60" Haban deck, new ag tires, factory rear fender flares, factory optional front bumper, etc. My gut feeling told me the plastic cam gear was what he thought was a "blown engine" and I bought it sight unseen. Sure enough, that was it. $275 later in OEM Kawasaki parts including a new cam with a steel cam gear, water pump, seals, gaskets, valve seals, etc, I got it all put together.

The other issue that has thrown a monkey wrench into the works for me was that the previous owner messed with the wiring and spliced and cut and added a push button for the starter. I get the freshened up Kawi back in the tractor and go to start it and the electric fuel pump doesn't kick on. Then I go to crank it over and there's no spark. This FD620 Kawi engine is the same one used in John Deere 425 tractors, so it's a common engine, but not common in Cubs, so I'm having some difficulty finding the answer. I hooked 12V to the fuel pump directly and it works fine. I put a new OEM Cub ignition switch on, and I checked all my safety switches, but no progress. I've been tracing the factory OEM Cub wiring diagram, but I still haven't got anywhere either.

Do you guys think the ignition module is bad? Electrical is my weak point so any help from you experts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[R Bedell]

The 2086 rolled out of the Factory with a Kawasaki FD620D‐AS13 engine.

the previous owner messed with the wiring and spliced and cut and added a push button for the starter.

The tractor was made between 1996-1997. Thus it ran up until this "cam situation".

You should wire the tractor to the original wiring diagram and use the correct Cub Cadet parts for your 2086.

[Oak]

JP, that same engine was used in the 3205 & 3208. I have a 3205 and my igniter box failed also. Mine would run but as it got warm it would fail to keep the engine running.

Prices are all over the place on that part too.

Cub Cadet is only asking $436 for the replacement part.

Here is a pretty good price on a replacement.
https://npwparts.com/products/kawasa...1v-fd620d-more

You need to make sure that you are getting power to the box before you replace it. You should be getting 12 volts to the orange/white wire going in to the box with the key on. Check to be sure you have a good ground on the black/white wire also. If you don't have both of those the box won't work.

Verify those readings and check back. I can email you a schematic if needed or Roland probably can too. Good luck.

[CubDieselFan]

I do not have any experience with these but following along...

[jpswift1]

Thanks for the replies, everyone! I unplugged all the connections and plugged them back in. There was some corrosion, but nothing major. After this, I tried to start it, and it fired right up and ran PERFECT (using a remote fuel tank being gravity fed). Now I have to figure out why 12V still isn't getting to the fuel pump, and for some reason the electric PTO isn't working.

I'll keep everyone updated.

[CubDieselFan]

Sounds like you are in the right track.

[jpswift1]

Good news, everyone. I loaded up the 2086 and took it to my Mom and Dad's house and my Dad who is much better with electrical than I am helped me chase down the wires. The moron who cobbed the electrical up on this thing really did a number on it, but we got all the wires hooked up correctly now. It's hard to explain, but the rat's nest that this guy created had wires going to all sorts of wrong places, and others were simply unhooked. We got it all hooked up CORRECTLY after chasing down the wires according to the OEM diagram. Then we grounded one last wire and ALL of the dash lights worked as they should have!

The only issue now is that when you turn the key to start it, sometimes it'll start, but sometimes it just makes a click noise, but nothing happens.........starter won't engage at all. I had this happen on my other "green" F525 mower, and it's from wear over the years and it causes a bad contact in one of the safety/interlock switches. I think it might be the brake switch interlock on this 2086, so I'll replace it from one of my parts tractors tomorrow and see what happens. The 2 interlock switches for the seat aren't the issue I don't think because someone wired them "closed", so I'm not sure what other interlocks/safeties could be causing it................do you guys happen to know of any others I should take a closer look at? I'll be sure to keep everyone updated. Thanks for the help.

[bugeye]

I went thru cleaning the wiring connections at safety switches and replacing suspected intermittent functioning switches. I was successful with tractor starting but, a few months later again I would have the dreaded click, no start. then another effort to find the voltage drop. Finally installed a relay to provide full voltage to the starter solenoid. Easy four wire connection with a less than $15 solenoid with fuse. So far, starts every time. I think the wiring connections get loose and dirty resulting in intermittent failures.

[jpswift1]

Originally Posted by bugeye

I went thru cleaning the wiring connections at safety switches and replacing suspected intermittent functioning switches. I was successful with tractor starting but, a few months later again I would have the dreaded click, no start. then another effort to find the voltage drop. Finally installed a relay to provide full voltage to the starter solenoid. Easy four wire connection with a less than $15 solenoid with fuse. So far, starts every time. I think the wiring connections get loose and dirty resulting in intermittent failures.

Thanks for the reply. You read my mind and I think you discovered the perfect solution. This is exactly what I was talking about when I refereed to my Deere F525 mower not starting, it's also Kawasaki powered and it does the click, turn the key and try again, click, again, click, again, click, then again and it'll start. This must be a common issue with Kawasaki powered equipment. There are sellers on ebay that sell a kit to fix this issue, which looks like just a relay and some wires.

Would you be so kind to tell me how you hooked the relay up on your Kawasaki to provide full voltage to your starter solenoid? Thanks in advance.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Rel...MAAOSw7NZbrOFi

[bugeye]

I used a relay similar to

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Holder-...oAAOSwPRteV7DK

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/p...pictureid=7893

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/p...pictureid=7892

My install on a 18 hp Kohler engine.
The relay provides battery power to the starter solenoid. The relay is actuated through the key switch and the safety interlocks.