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  #1  
Old 03-30-2020, 07:30 PM
tpelle tpelle is offline
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Default New To Me LTX 1042

I just acquired a 10 year old LTX 1042. It hadn't been used at all last year, but all I had to do was put a new battery in it, new gasoline, and a new spark plug, and it started right up. I was told that the mower deck spindles and blades were replaced a couple of years ago. However, the previous owner somehow broke the oil drain valve and replaced it with a galvanized pipe nipple, an elbow, and a pipe plug (which leaks a little).

I would like to restore the oil drain system to the factory parts, so I've purchased a new valve and the plastic extension tube. I'm just waiting for the new parts to come in.

Is there any sort of thread sealer, anti-seize goop, teflon tape, whatever, to use when I install the new drain valve?
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:07 PM
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ironman ironman is offline
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I like to use teflon tape.
I have flipped a number of lawn tractors of all brands and personally I remove and throw away the quickie nipple and do what your previous owner did. One of my flips was a fire salvage because the quickie nipple worked it's way open while the owner was mowing and oil splashed onto the muffler and lit up. Didn't damage anything engine wise but melted the plastic grill/hood.
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Old 03-31-2020, 09:17 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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I'm with Ironman,
while the quick drain is convenient, I don't trust them.
Teflon tape is ok but remember it is slicker than Corona virus snot on yer finger,

so one has to be careful as not to over tighten tapered threads and break a casting.
You can also use pipe dope or permatex #1.
An old pipefitter trick to repair a wallowed out/too big tapered pipe thread, is to coat the nipple with shellac/pipe dope or permatex and wind a sewing thread in the
pipe threads, to tighten up the looseness
it will hold well up to #40 pressure or so, but not for high pressure like hydraulic pressures.
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Old 03-31-2020, 09:20 AM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
An old pipefitter trick to repair a wallowed out/too big tapered pipe thread, is to coat the nipple with shellac/pipe dope or permatex and wind a sewing thread in the pipe threads, to tighten up the looseness
.
Wow.. That is one I have never heard of. It makes perfect sense for a quick fix. Oddly enough, "dont ask me why" I keep one of those tiny sewing kits in my glove box. Learn something new everyday.
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  #5  
Old 03-31-2020, 04:03 PM
tpelle tpelle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
I like to use teflon tape.
I have flipped a number of lawn tractors of all brands and personally I remove and throw away the quickie nipple and do what your previous owner did. One of my flips was a fire salvage because the quickie nipple worked it's way open while the owner was mowing and oil splashed onto the muffler and lit up. Didn't damage anything engine wise but melted the plastic grill/hood.
Well, I may just re-think this, and just leave the pipefitters dream on there then. I was sort of worried about trying to remove or install the pipe plug, and putting so much torque on the end of that pipe that it would crack the aluminum block.

After watching a few Youtube videos on the Koehler Courage engine, and seeing how that engine is made and the issues people have with them, I am amazed that this little tractor shows 589 hours on the clock and is still running! It smokes from around the muffler, which I guess means that the valve cover gasket is shot. I may just tinker around with it some, RTV myself a valve cover gasket to cut down on the smoke screen, and maybe go around the top engine cover to see if I can find any bolts vibrated loose.

I have a XT-2 with the Kawasaki 2-cylinder engine (Smooth engine!) and the 48" fabricated deck, so I'm set for a mower. I was really just thinking about this LTX 1042 as a puller for my wagon and my lawn sweeper.
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2020, 05:33 PM
tpelle tpelle is offline
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I decided to go ahead and install the factory style oil drain valve. I went ahead and changed the oil and filter, and I installed a new fuel filter and battery,

There were a couple of nasty spots of rust on the fender and footboards, so I picked up a can of rust converter stuff and a can of Cub Cadet yellow. Looks so good now that I ordered a new one of the big safety instruction decal - the original one was curled up on the right side and would catch your shoe when you dismounted the tractor.

I've been using this little tractor almost daily now - mowed the yard (about 3/4 of an acre) with it, and have been using it to pull my yard cart around in support of doing little clean up jobs.

The tractor runs great, starts promptly, no smoke, and has good power. The hour meter is at 592.6 hours now.

I ALWAYS check the oil and, just for peace of mind, look at that drain valve just to make sure it isn't leaking and that the outer "knob" is still locked in it's detents. I always give it a quick walk-around just to see if everything looks tight, tires are up, etc. (Old airplane pilot, and those habits are hard to break.) I actually think I like this tractor better than my new(er) XT-2 with the Kawasaki motor - just seems to drive better.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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