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  #1  
Old 04-27-2020, 01:07 PM
tpelle tpelle is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 69
Default Model 1000 Drive Shaft Removal

I need to remove the drive shaft from my 1000. The last time I did this I decided that I had to remove the engine. That was a LOT of extra work, and honestly I think I'm too weak and old to start a job like this again. (At my age, an ice cream cone comes with a lifetime guarantee.). I consulted my IH workshop manual, and they made it sound easy - remove the bolts from the rubber flex coupler, remove the pivot pin for the clutch arm and disconnect the clutch op rod, and then just wiggle it out! No dice, as far as I can see.

History: I bought this tractor brand new about 40+ years ago. The original 10 HP engine blew, and about 10 years ago I scored a rebuilt engine from a 1200 and swapped that one in, and I replaced the clutch lining while I had it out, plus I put in a set of Jeff Derstine's solid mounts to replace the ISO mounts, and put in a solid clutch driver disk. This chassis has about 1000 hours on it.

Any secret handshake tips and tricks?
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  #2  
Old 04-27-2020, 05:43 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: MA
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Default

There is an output yoke on the back end of the driveshaft. There is an input yoke on the input shaft of the reduction gear/transmission. There is a rag joint bolted in between the two yokes. Each yoke is attached to it's corresponding shaft by a spirol pin. Support the driveshaft just ahead of the output yoke and drive out both spirol pins. Remove the 4 bolts. Slide the yokes forward on the drive shaft. Don't loose the centering ball bearing!
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  #3  
Old 04-27-2020, 08:48 PM
tpelle tpelle is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kentucky
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton View Post
There is an output yoke on the back end of the driveshaft. There is an input yoke on the input shaft of the reduction gear/transmission. There is a rag joint bolted in between the two yokes. Each yoke is attached to it's corresponding shaft by a spirol pin. Support the driveshaft just ahead of the output yoke and drive out both spirol pins. Remove the 4 bolts. Slide the yokes forward on the drive shaft. Don't loose the centering ball bearing!
Thanks! I'll give that a try. Better start soaking the spirol pins in Blaster,
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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