125 Gas tank

[West Valley G]

Does anybody know what was the original way that the outlet of the
gas tank was kept from leaking. Working on this one and as you can see
it has been fixed about 5 different ways over the years, from others not
myself. I could not tell from the parts diagram what it was initially.
Might just come up with my own solution anyway, but ya never know.

KenDSCN1970.jpg

[finsruskw]

The 1/8" female bungs are soldered to the bottom of the tank.

You may have to remove it, clean and tin the surface and re-solder it properly to get it to stop leaking.

To be on the safe side, I'd use a new close nipple to attach the sediment bowl as the original threads may be compromised from over tightening.

[ol'George]

Some bungs were spot welded first, then sweat soldered to seal.
Clean well and use cut muriatic acid to clean under the mating surfaces, so you get a good, sweated joint, not a mudded-on glob of chit.
Best to use a large soldering copper (if you have one)rather than overheat/burn it using a propane torch.
Remove the close nipple or it will solder itself to the bung.
Then chase the threads in the bung with a pipe tap.
If the threads are already oversize in the bung, let the solder wick up in the threads, then chase them, as it will restore the size of the bung, but be careful that you don't go too big again.
A new close nipple should start, and begin to tighten about 3/4 to 1 turn in.

[RustyShackleford]

Check the area for cracks in the tank as well, as sometimes the tanks can crack near the bung (especially around the corners of the bung). Mine was; had to have a radiator shop braze it up for me.

[Workingstiff]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Some bungs were spot welded first, then sweat soldered to seal.
Clean well and use cut muriatic acid to clean under the mating surfaces, so you get a good, sweated joint, not a mudded-on glob of chit.
Best to use a large soldering copper (if you have one)rather than overheat/burn it using a propane torch.
Remove the close nipple or it will solder itself to the bung.
Then chase the threads in the bung with a pipe tap.
If the threads are already oversize in the bung, let the solder wick up in the threads, then chase them, as it will restore the size of the bung, but be careful that you don't go too big again.
A new close nipple should start, and begin to tighten about 3/4 to 1 turn in.

Good info for future use...

[sorner]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Some bungs were spot welded first, then sweat soldered to seal.
Clean well and use cut muriatic acid to clean under the mating surfaces, so you get a good, sweated joint, not a mudded-on glob of chit.
Best to use a large soldering copper (if you have one)rather than overheat/burn it using a propane torch.
Remove the close nipple or it will solder itself to the bung.
Then chase the threads in the bung with a pipe tap.
If the threads are already oversize in the bung, let the solder wick up in the threads, then chase them, as it will restore the size of the bung, but be careful that you don't go too big again.
A new close nipple should start, and begin to tighten about 3/4 to 1 turn in.

If you do use a torch, make sure the gas is all out of it... or you'll need new nipples.