124 Over charging

[sw1115]

Hi all,
Picked up a 124 in rough shape. Stuck motor, frozen clutch, water in the rearend, rotten tires. You get the picture. So I fixed all that and the wiring harness was junk. I rewired it with oem colors and it runs well now. My problem is at high RPM I have 17 volts to the battery. Original VR had welded contacts so I replaced it with a 4 terminal VR (bat, gen, field and ground) from Amazon. Same problem. I assumed a defective VR so I returned it and got a replacement. Again, same problem. What are the chances that both regulators are bad? What should I look at next? Thanks in advance for any help.

Skip

[Brianator]

If yours is the type with the removable cover then from what I know it's adjustable so you can set your max charging voltage.

[ol'George]

Check that is is wired correctly!!!!!!!!!
So many times we get questions and it turns out that someone didn't pay attention to the wiring LABELING on the regulator terminals, they just went by the LOCATiON of the terminals.

The charge adjustment is done at the factory in a controlled environment of humidity as well temperature, under a specified load
It is not advisable to put a "golden screwdriver" in the regulator to "adjust it"
as it is set properly at the factory.
Back in the 60's we were cautioned by Delco Remy not to adjust them.
Now there were some regulators that were adjustable, they even had an external knob on the top of the regulator to adjust for special conditions like say an ice cream truck that idled a lot with some added amp draw of constant braking and sound systems.

[R Bedell]

Check that is is wired correctly!!!!!!!!!
So many times we get questions and it turns out that someone didn't pay attention to the wiring LABELING on the regulator terminals, they just went by the LOCATiON of the terminals.

AMEN or they have the Wrong V/R.

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Check that is is wired correctly!!!!!!!!!

And with GOOD ground!

[Brianator]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Check that is is wired correctly!!!!!!!!!
So many times we get questions and it turns out that someone didn't pay attention to the wiring LABELING on the regulator terminals, they just went by the LOCATiON of the terminals.

This is definitely sound advice!

Originally Posted by ol'George

The charge adjustment is done at the factory in a controlled environment of humidity as well temperature, under a specified load.
It is not advisable to put a "golden screwdriver" in the regulator to "adjust it"
as it is set properly at the factory.

I would bet dollars to donuts that the one(s) he purchased on Amazon are NOT authentic Delco-Remy but offshore brand which I'm sure we've all seen that the quality control of some of that stuff is sub standard...let alone most of what is reproduced these days even by a reputable manufacturer.

Originally Posted by ol'George

Back in the 60's we were cautioned by Delco Remy not to adjust them.

It used to be standard practice to have to adjust your regulator a couple times a year to account for different temperates for year round use depending on where you live or even do an initial setting if you lived in an area that had a tempuratre far outside their "controlled environment" where they do an initial setup. Delco-Remy issued service bulletins from the 50's through the 60's detailing exactly how to do it which makes it to the contrary they would advise against it...


There's no doubt there's a wealth of knowledge here and I'm not picking on you specifically Ol'George (I've read many excellent posts by you) you just had the most to say but you guys are SO dismissive of advice around here! Maybe because you're set in your own ways or because it's out of your comfort zone(s) but seriously guys I haven't been finding this forum to be overly warm or welcoming, who's going to end up carrying the torch if you don't give people a chance or can even muster up some recognition of trying to make a contribution?

It's not all about the present, the future of the forum needs to be considered to keep the standards you uphold intact, have a think on that.

[ol'George]

As far as adjusting a reg. or other things that us old farts remember,
there are people that should be banned from using tools, then there are others that are learning and need to know, and want to know.
We just never know anyone's abilities or lack of them.
So one has to shoot for the medium trying to give experience and recommendations, yet allow allow new ideas, and individual thoughts.
Out of the box thinking is what made this world a better place as we all know.
Problem is down the road someone reads a posting or a yall tubers and says well this guy wacked his starter motor and now it runs fine but nobody mentioned the difference of PM Maggots vs field coils.
We could go on and on till congress convenes on a cold day in hell but we try not.
Just like tightening fasteners, goot "N" tight has a lot of leeway.

Yes I remember the days when everything was 6 volt and 3 brush generators with just a cutout that sometimes stuck and you woke to a dead Bat-tree.
----out came the crank or a push start.
Good old days were not all that good, but were much simpler.
The best idea to come along was 12V systems with solid state regulators.
But todays fool injection and computer controlled everything to meet emission regulations causes more problems than intended because of supplier requirements of least possible cost.
Agreed,
Amazon does not always know what the hell they are selling, as they are too big, they do accept free returns but that don't help if their "will fit listing is wrong.
Sorry for the leading this train off the track.
I hope the op replies what he has found as it is good for all to know.
When a person quits learning, they have died.

[R Bedell]

I have said it before, the "correct" parts, installed and wired correctly, goes a ................long way.

[sw1115]

As far as wiring, I wired it to the diagram in the technical section here. Oem colors and 14 Gauge copper stranded wire. Battery cables are 4 gauge bat to solenoid, solenoid to starter and negitive bat to engine block. VR body is grounded and the white/black stripe is run to the ground on the engine block. I have ordered another VR from a different vender with the hopes that the previous 2 where defective.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by sw1115

As far as wiring, I wired it to the diagram in the technical section here. Oem colors and 14 Gauge copper stranded wire. Battery cables are 4 gauge bat to solenoid, solenoid to starter and negitive bat to engine block. VR body is grounded and the white/black stripe is run to the ground on the engine block. I have ordered another VR from a different vender with the hopes that the previous 2 where defective.

If you don't know (prolly do) the voltage should be about 14 maybe 14 1/2 or so voltage max.
Do check as I mentioned before, to make sure that the wires are connected to the proper labeled terminals on the regulator, as there is no standard to where the regulator terminals are located on the regulator.
That is where a lot of people go wrong.
There are at least 3 different regulator configuration's of terminal placement.
Thanks for posting back, and do make sure your grounds are good as mentioned before by others, sometimes it is just a coat of paint that causes a no connection situation.