1450 update

jeffscub · #1 09-05-2010, 01:05 AM

guys, i pulled the shrouds away from the muffler tonight and to my surprise, as you can see in the pictures, its leaking from that old culprit, the head gasket. i'm not saying that it don't need rings BUT i am saying that for that much oil on the front of the tractor it was more than just rings. there was virtually no oil residue around the area of the exhaust outlet, just where you can see it in the pictures. if i am wrong about my assumption, then please chime in and tell me!!! i will be taking the deck off tomorrow and pressure washing it and the hydro unit to see where my leak is. my local TSC doesn't have hy-tran or even any other type of fluid for my cub, so i will have to wait till tuesday to go to the closes dealer. jeff

Mike1450 · #2 09-05-2010, 10:29 AM

Hi Jeff

My 1450 looked similar when I took it apart but not as much oil. I did not have oil residue around the exhaust area either most likely because this area gets very hot and would burn it off.

I would lean to the side that you would need rings knowing the age of the unit, do you know how many hours it has on it?

Some signs that rings may be need are:

1) Does it burn oil when running? (do you have to added oil often)
2) After changing oil does it get dirty with in 1 or 2 uses?
3) When you pull the head is the top of the piston wet with oil?
4) When you first start it do you get a large puff of smoke?

While you are cleaning things up you may want to add a brace to the muffler where it bolts to the Aluminum shield. They crack at that point, if your has not cracked already. Of course don't forget to check the rubber ISO mounts common issue in the QL series.

Matt G. · #3 09-05-2010, 10:35 AM

The top of the piston is probably going to be wet with oil if the head gasket is blown, regardless of how good the rings are. If you just bought the tractor, I'd change the head gasket only and run it a bit to determine the condition of the engine. I would say that a blown head gasket would look like that if it was left unrepaired long enough.

Matt G. · #4 09-05-2010, 10:37 AM

Also...Muffler brace:

jeffscub · #5 09-05-2010, 03:34 PM

thanks matt, for the info!!! if I have MY way, it will have a stack on it, if my wife has HER way, i will keep it "stock" and brace the muffler like you said. i found out where i am leaking hydro fluid from. it's either the O-ring behind the charge pump housing or the seal in front of it. i'm not looking forward to repairing it either way. i hate pulling and engine. jeff

Mike1450 · #6 09-05-2010, 03:55 PM

You don't have to pull the engine to change the seal or charge pump!

jeffscub · #7 09-05-2010, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike1450

You don't have to pull the engine to change the seal or charge pump!

ok, thats good to know. i've been looking at how to do it, but i am lost. do i drop the drive shaft at the flex joint and go from there?? thanks jeff

Mike1450 · #8 09-05-2010, 06:00 PM

Support the drive shaft from under side. Tap out spiral pin from Hydro coupling (soak it with PB) Remove rag joint bolts on hydro end. Slide hydro coupling back as far as it can go towards the hydro. With a large screw driver or pry bar between the drive shaft and hydro coupling push the drive shaft forward. There is enough play in the front rag joint to allow the drive shaft to come out of the back end. You can also remove the front rag joint bolts if you want to remove the whole shaft.

Once the drive shaft is out of the way, slide the hydro coupling forward and off the trans shaft. You can then use a small pick or screw drive to pry out the front seal or remove the charge pump housing removing the two bolt that hold it on. If you think you have to remove the charge pump make a mark between the hydro and charge pump cover. Very important that the cover is reinstalled back the same way. Most likely your leak is the front seal it cost me about $2.80 at the CC dealer. Clean the trans shaft real good so when you install the seal it does not get a tear from dirt on the shaft. Lube the shaft with some HyTran so it slides easy. You can tap the new seal back in place using a deep well socket.

jeffscub · #9 09-14-2010, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike1450

Support the drive shaft from under side. Tap out spiral pin from Hydro coupling (soak it with PB) Remove rag joint bolts on hydro end. Slide hydro coupling back as far as it can go towards the hydro. With a large screw driver or pry bar between the drive shaft and hydro coupling push the drive shaft forward. There is enough play in the front rag joint to allow the drive shaft to come out of the back end. You can also remove the front rag joint bolts if you want to remove the whole shaft.

Once the drive shaft is out of the way, slide the hydro coupling forward and off the trans shaft. You can then use a small pick or screw drive to pry out the front seal or remove the charge pump housing removing the two bolt that hold it on. If you think you have to remove the charge pump make a mark between the hydro and charge pump cover. Very important that the cover is reinstalled back the same way. Most likely your leak is the front seal it cost me about $2.80 at the CC dealer. Clean the trans shaft real good so when you install the seal it does not get a tear from dirt on the shaft. Lube the shaft with some HyTran so it slides easy. You can tap the new seal back in place using a deep well socket.

mike, i replaced the o ring and the seal this evening. why it was leaking was the o ring. who ever had the pump off last must have twisted the o ring, it was out of its groove at one spot, i could see the fluid impression that it had left. i cleaned everything off real good, lubed with new hy-tran, decided to replace the seal since i had access to it, when i went to install it, with a socket of the same size, i hit it off to the side and bent my seal. i decided to install it and see if it leaked and lo and behold, worse than before. my dumb luck. i have ordered a new seal and fan (one fin was broke off). and reinstall, but more careful this time!!!!! jeff