charging issue

cdmintmi · #1 02-22-2011, 11:00 PM

Ok Im not totally sure this is the right forum for this question. I do know Im not a mechanic, but I like to tinker and Im trying to learn. I have a Onan elite 140 on a cub cadet with a new battery. After searching here I have ran the test to see if stator and regulator are working properly. Resistance of 0.0 ohms from stator (good right), 14.5v from regulator middle pin (thats ok to right?). I found another site that said to check resistance from middle pin on regulator and negative baterry cable with ingition open but not running. Ill try that tomorrow but what gets me is that with the engine running I get 14.5v to the baterry which means that everything is working. But as soon as I turn the engine off voltage slowly continues to drop at battery. Is this a ground issue? Any help here would be great.

cdmintmi · #2 02-22-2011, 11:52 PM

Also can you get a service manual for a '95 cub 2140 in .pdf format? or does anyone happen to have one already?

R Bedell · #3 02-23-2011, 06:03 AM

Manuals for the newer Cubs can be had from here....... Cub Manuals

When checking charging issues, the voltage at the middle pin to ground is considered with the motor running and at WOT. It should be in the neighbor of 13.7VDC.

cdmintmi · #4 02-23-2011, 12:33 PM

yes at WOT middle pin to ground was 14.5vdc. is that a problem?
Like this morning, I checked battery it was at 12.1 volts, not enough to crank it, so I jumped it off from my truck. With the engine running WOT battery goes up to 14.5volts. To me that means stator and regulator are good and sending charge to battery, right? But when I cut the engine off and put meter on battery it slowly trickles down from 14.5 until its back to 12.1 or so. That make sense?

cdmintmi · #5 02-23-2011, 02:47 PM

ok I took some time to day to do some more cleaning of the connections. All seem to be good. Cleaned ignition posts, hour meter, pto switch, regulator connectors to stator, ground on block, and every other one that I could see. I did the stator/regulator test again and the results were the same as in the original post. So Im stumped agian.

The po has lost the headlight assembly and lens so I was looking a little closer at the wires going to the lights and found this. One conection to headlights ( i think the right one) was still in the harness, but the wires going to the other (i think left light) had been cut. Im assuming he did this becuase the lights were gone adn didnt want the wires getting into the PTO. Ive added a picture to show. Could this cause a problem? I dont think it would but im not sure, Im assuming he ran it like this so it must not be the problem. But Im not sure.

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ol'George · #6 02-23-2011, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmintmi

yes at WOT middle pin to ground was 14.5vdc. is that a problem?
Like this morning, I checked battery it was at 12.1 volts, not enough to crank it, so I jumped it off from my truck. With the engine running WOT battery goes up to 14.5volts. To me that means stator and regulator are good and sending charge to battery, right? But when I cut the engine off and put meter on battery it slowly trickles down from 14.5 until its back to 12.1 or so. That make sense?

A fully charged battery is 12.62 volts.
@ 12.1 v. you need to charge it with a small 1 amp charger for say 12-16 hours then check it after sitting undisturbed overnight.
Do not use a high amp charger, as it will not do a small battery good.
Possibly the "NEW" battery sat on the suppliers shelf for a year and it is not up to par,and never will be.
I've seen it many times.

_DX3_ · #7 02-23-2011, 06:35 PM

I've had several new batteries that were DOA...

cdmintmi · #8 02-23-2011, 09:39 PM

OK... I checked and re-cleaned every connection I could find today and then put it all back together and redid the stator and regulator test. Again everything checked out and this time the battery trickled down to 12.5DCV and seemed to hold at least for a hour or so. Ill check it again in the morning but I'm thinking I might have had a bad connection in there somewhere. If its not right in the morning Ill take the battery back to NAPA and try that. Thanks for the help, this forum is really helpful. There are tons and tons of info on here that isn't only for cubs but could help a lot of different people, but the cubs on here are pretty cool. Cant believe I only recently found this site, I hope it doesn't cost me too much because now I really want a true cub instead of this mid 90's knock-off I have. One day.....one day

R Bedell · #9 02-24-2011, 08:08 AM

Check all your connections between the V/R and the Battery. See image..

cdmintmi · #10 02-24-2011, 10:50 AM

Battery was still holding at 12.4 volts this morning and she fired right up. First time since I started this project that I was able to just sit on her and go with out jumping it off with the truck!!!!! Thank goodness, I was getting tired of jumper cables. I think I must have missed a connection the first time going through. Thanks for all the help guys, you and this site rock. In my experience if there is problem its normally not the new parts, its the installer.

I found a headlight assembly on flebay for 40 bucks so I bought it (cub wants 80 plus s/h). The tractor just looked bad without that big opening where the lens should be. Now I have to figure out how to fix the wiring that my dad cut (see picture above). Anyone know a part number for the connector that the light bulb hooks to or even if you can buy just that? Its not listed in the parts break down I have. Or should I just cut the other one off too and take to a parts store and then patch both of them?