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#1
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I've been having some problems with the drive shaft on my 123 since I bought it a year ago. It has a very noticable wobble/vibration when it's running, which I think is coming from the flex disc at the hydro pump. I'm hoping somebody can give me some guidance, about what would cause this vibration/drive shaft unbalance when it appears that the flex disc is still firmly attached and not damaged. it's bad enough that it's broken 2 of the fan blades off, and wore through the roll pin where the shaft couples to the flywheel 2 times. And is getting to that flex disc as difficult as it looks? It looks like I'll have to tear apart the whole damn thing to get to it, I'm really hoping there's an easier solution to it though. Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.
- Greg |
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#2
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All I can say is its easier to work on it from bottom- If you can stand it up vertical, it will be easier.
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#3
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I was wondering about that, it didn't look like there was much clearance from underneath but I still like that idea better than tearing the whole top half of the tractor off for a small problem. I have a big aluminum I-beam supporting the shed roof that I can probably get some ratchet straps around and lift it up a little at a time. Thanks.
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#4
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Just a p.s. / by the way/ : you wont be able to separate the tractor anyway! Well, you still have to remove hydro linkages, either way, and they ARE enough to keep tractor together.
dont ask how I know!!! I would write answer in blood
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#5
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I posted this a few weeks ago,this is prolly your problem,4th post down on the page...http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...2108#post62108
__________________
Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
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#6
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Quote:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...postcount=2644 |
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#7
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You betcha!!
__________________
Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
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#8
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I had a 125 that I tore apart and never reassembled, but I ended up turning it over on it's side and found it to be pretty easy to split. I think mine might have been empty of fluids, so i don't know what kind of mess you might make. I guess it would be a good excuse to do a oil change!
AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock 1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist 1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller 1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch 1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned |
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#9
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Looks like i'll be looking for something cheap to mow with until I get the time to fix the 123. Looks like a bigger project than I really want to take on right now, it's got me wondering if this shaft drive stuff is all it's cracked up to be.
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#10
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It's like anything, you have to keep things maintained and that isn't always easy. Yes the driveshaft thing is definitely the way to go once you have it all good and running correct. I would put a new driveshaft in, new flex discs and any bushings needed at either end of the shaft. Once you have done that, you should never have an issue from it for a long long time. I am not knocking any of the cubs at all, cause I love them all, but this is why I like the WF's, they are so much easier to get into and work on. It is just my personal taste is all.
Don't give up. Keep us posted. We will help with anything we can.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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