Cub Cadet 149 Wont Start

[countywacker]

My 149 wont start, the starter solenoid was just clicking away and was not turning the starter/generator. I went ahead and changed the solenoid and now its doing the same thing and still wont start. I put a meter on the starter and its only intermittingly getting voltage when I turn the key. After a few trys it wont do anything now. Also, the head lights will not work now also. The battery is showing 12.5 volts. Any ideas?

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by countywacker

My 149 wont start, the starter solenoid was just clicking away and was not turning the starter/generator. I went ahead and changed the solenoid and now its doing the same thing and still wont start. I put a meter on the starter and its only intermittingly getting voltage when I turn the key. After a few trys it wont do anything now. Also, the head lights will not work now also. The battery is showing 12.5 volts. Any ideas?

Try running a jumper cable from battery positive to starter/generator and see if it turns. Make sure to use the thick positive lug on s/g and not the field or F lug. If that works, it’s either a bad cable or connection from the solenoid to the battery, or it’s a bad cable or connection from battery to solenoid.

If not, you could have a bad ground cable, or a bad battery or a bad starter/generator.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Gompers

Try running a jumper cable from battery positive to starter/generator and see if it turns. Make sure to use the thick positive lug on s/g and not the field or F lug. If that works, it’s either a bad cable or connection from the solenoid to the battery, or it’s a bad cable or connection from battery to solenoid.

If not, you could have a bad ground cable, or a bad battery or a bad starter/generator.

So, if after doing the test you suggest.... all the parts between the key switch and the starter, along with every connection are still suspect, what good, exactly, is this test? I'll wait for an answer before I supply a real problem solving test procedure.

[cubs-n-bxrs]

Well I reckon it's time to clean up all ground connections and all the connections in the start circuit.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs

Well I reckon it's time to clean up all ground connections.....

The importance of proper grounds cannot be overstated.

Performing a voltage drop test may also be helpful in isolating a faulty wire or connection;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paw8...t=37s&index=22

Good luck!

[R Bedell]

Pull both Battery Cables, on both ends. Clean & polish the cable ends. Make sure the newly cleaned ends come in contact with clean terminals and bare metal.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

So, if after doing the test you suggest.... all the parts between the key switch and the starter, along with every connection are still suspect, what good, exactly, is this test? I'll wait for an answer before I supply a real problem solving test procedure.

It eliminates the battery and starter/generator (and starter/generator ground) as being the problem, and, more than likely, the battery ground. That’s half the components.

It’s got a new solenoid. What’s left is cables/connections and, as you said, the key. So now you know it’s more than likely one of those two things.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Gompers

It eliminates the battery and starter/generator (and starter/generator ground) as being the problem, and, more than likely, the battery ground. That’s half the components.

It’s got a new solenoid. What’s left is cables/connections and, as you said, the key. So now you know it’s more than likely one of those two things.

If it hadn't cranked, it would have eliminated NOTHING. Only would have told you that the battery or the S/G could also be bad. Using a test light and volt meter is how you find and fix electrical problems. Using jumper cables and hooking them up here and there are for emergency situations where you need something to run right now so you can fix it later.

[Gompers]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If it hadn't cranked, it would have eliminated NOTHING. Only would have told you that the battery or the S/G could also be bad. Using a test light and volt meter is how you find and fix electrical problems. Using jumper cables and hooking them up here and there are for emergency situations where you need something to run right now so you can fix it later.

It might not have absolutely eliminated anything, but it would have pointed to the problem not being the switch, the solenoid, or the cabling (aside from the battery ground, and possibly the s/g wiring ground). Or if it was, it is a second fault.

[countywacker]

Originally Posted by Gompers

Try running a jumper cable from battery positive to starter/generator and see if it turns. Make sure to use the thick positive lug on s/g and not the field or F lug. If that works, it’s either a bad cable or connection from the solenoid to the battery, or it’s a bad cable or connection from battery to solenoid.

If not, you could have a bad ground cable, or a bad battery or a bad starter/generator.

Ok, so I can get it started that way. So what should I be looking for next to fix this?