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  #11  
Old 12-21-2013, 10:13 PM
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I would be carful about turning them 90*, if it's damaged that bad you may end up twisting the whole end of the tube off with 4 holes. IMHO the idea of using copper to repair it would be the safe way
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2013, 10:27 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Just a little off topic.....

I thank you all for the help! Some good idea's flying, some I had thought of, some I hadn't. But.... I was really more interested in the new auger. If it would affect the feed either positively or negatively. If the "serrated" edges helped any.... I have the new one, and I'm keeping it. I will also repair and keep the old augers. Just wondering if it might be advantageous to put the new one in, or if it matters.
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2013, 09:10 AM
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Burned the box.



Kelly, that's exactly how I was thinking I'd repair it. Apparently, great minds think alike! Think I'll keep the auger, for now anyway. Just in case. Was going to pull it apart anyway though because I have a bent impeller blade.
As far as the sheer bolt, I actually did have a grade 8 in it when it ripped the tube. I didn't have any more, so threw the grade 5 in to finish up.
Jon you shouldn't even have a graded bolt in there. Shear bolts are extremely soft to break before karnage happens to the auger or shaft as we have seen in the pics. A grade 5 did the same damage to my auger because I didn't have any more shear bolts and thought a grade 5 would work in a pinch. So much for wishful thinking.
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2013, 09:49 AM
gmbadgley gmbadgley is offline
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The brass is a very good idea. I had also thought of that. But, decided against it only because I do not have a piece of 1" brass 2' long, and to buy one, it would cost as much as the new auger! LOL!.
I don't think turning the auger is a good idea. The two augers alternately feed the impeller. I think turning it 90° would make it feed uneven. Slug, nothing, slug, nothing..... See what I mean?
Just use a brass pipe fitting, You don't need a solid brass shaft.

Copper pipe would work, but I would question weather the heat from the weld would melt through the copper since it is thin wall. Worth a try if you have some.
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  #15  
Old 12-22-2013, 08:09 PM
IACubCadet IACubCadet is offline
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Jon you shouldn't even have a graded bolt in there. Shear bolts are extremely soft to break before karnage happens to the auger or shaft as we have seen in the pics. A grade 5 did the same damage to my auger because I didn't have any more shear bolts and thought a grade 5 would work in a pinch. So much for wishful thinking.
x2...definitely not a good idea. Just asking to break another auger assembly. Kinda like putting a grade 5 or 8 bolt in place of a shear bolt for a square baler flywheel shaft or chamber rake assembly...tends to break stuff.
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2013, 02:22 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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As far as the grade 8 bolt is concerned:
When we farmed, we used grade 8 for all sheer pins/bolts. We found that a "sheer" (grade 2) or even a grade 5 would break under just normal load. Or would just bend until it broke under load. During a "shock" hit, like on the baler the grade 5 would roll, pull, bend and then break. It wouldn't break fast enough. A grade 8 bolt has tensile strength, so it is very hard. However, when a side load was put on it in a sheer style situation, it would IMMEDIATELY sheer when a "shock" load hit it. We had far better luck with the 8's breaking when they were supposed to, and not just "randomly". Now, with this blower, the gearbox drive, and the fact that it never really encounters a "shock" may make the 8 or even a 5 a bad choice. But, I was going off my previous experience that an 8 sheered faster than anything because they were so hard. I'll see if I can find some grade 2 bolts and give them a try!
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2013, 05:25 PM
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Not to jump into the party late, but on the sheer bolts; don't worry John, I learned that lesson last year, too Had a 24" MTD blower at work and sheered a sheer pin. Well, snow storm + no time to really look into why it sheered = me using a bolt in a pinch. Long story short, it literally ended up wrapping the auger around the shaft. Had I took the 1 minute to investigate, I would have seen that the scrape plate was so worn from years of abuse (by my predecessors, wonder why they aren't here anymore ) and was actually feeding into the auger stopping it cold in it's tracks. That was a long winter.

Anyway, on the auger tube, if they fit, it may not be a bad idea to get a 2nd new one and try to fix what you have. Then when you (eventually) change over to the new style, you can do both sides at once and won't have to worry about uneven feed.
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  #18  
Old 12-24-2013, 03:44 AM
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Why wouldn't you use the correct "shear" bolt. The OEM bolts have been turned to become the weakest link. I buy them by the bag, rather replace a three dollar bolt than a one hundred and fifty dollar auger. Been there, done that, learn quick.
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  #19  
Old 12-25-2013, 03:03 AM
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Just a little off topic.....

I thank you all for the help! Some good idea's flying, some I had thought of, some I hadn't. But.... I was really more interested in the new auger. If it would affect the feed either positively or negatively. If the "serrated" edges helped any.... I have the new one, and I'm keeping it. I will also repair and keep the old augers. Just wondering if it might be advantageous to put the new one in, or if it matters.
Heres my 2 cents to your original question. I would think the serrated edge is supposed to break up the packed snow a little better, (I'm not to sure if they didn't over think that one.) I cant see where it should make much of a difference to run the new augers, it shouldn't hurt anything. I would be very interested in knowing if it does out perform the original style
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  #20  
Old 12-25-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1811woody View Post
I would be very interested in knowing if it does out perform the original style
As a member of the been there, done that club, I can compare. Finding out the previous owner replaced the shear bolts with regular bolts after running over a screw in the ground dog anchor is bad. Completely ripped the auger tube in two and bent bolts over. Replacement augers are serrated where the original were smooth.
The only performance different I see is in a hard crusted snow. Before the smooth original augers would break off a slab and push it along till it get hung up on something then feed into the blower. The serrated augers kinda chew on it to get it into the blower.
Which reminds me, need to order another bag of bolts.
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