1450 Transmission Question

[Matt G.]

If you have to tighten bolts into the holes, I would go with the slower-setting stuff, as it has nearly twice the strength of the 4-minute version. Neither is going to be very strong. Any threads you manage to get in is will strip if they become load-bearing. From the looks of the pictures you posted, you'll probably still have enough thread engagement in the casting to hold the rear cover on, but that's about it. If you mix it and let it get the the consistency of a putty, you could probably remove the bolts after you get it in place and let it cure without the bolts in the holes.

And this is one of those things where if it were my tractor, I wouldn't even be screwing with this...it would be getting a replacement transaxle.

I'm surprised they haven't had claims filed against them for false advertising...an epoxy with 10% of steel's ultimate strength is not "as hard and tough as steel".

[NiasNeb]

There are threads available to screw into so that's a good thing.

I'm slightly skeptical about the JB Weld idea but I figure it's worth a try. The worst that could happen is that it breaks off while I'm using it and I don't notice until it is too late. Either way I'd have to replace the rear end anyway right?

I'm keeping an eye out for a place to buy just the rear end but so far have not come up with anything.

2 questions:

• How much would a 1450 be worth with no motor in it and some slight cosmetic (like grill and headlights missing) issues (ballpark)?
• What other model tractors can interchange with a 1450 rear end successfully?

I'm keeping my options open.

[Matt G.]

Any IH Cub Cadet hydro transaxle will work. You may have to change brake linkage if you go from external brakes to internal or vice versa, but the interface to the frame is the same.

1450 less engine would be less than $100 in my area. I've passed on several nearly complete but rough QL tractors lately that went for less than $100 at auction.

[NiasNeb]

Well I spent the weekend adding JB Weld to the rear end of the transaxle. We used the stronger stuff on there and that meant that we had to wait about an hour for it to firm up and then another 90 minutes working it into place and then about an hour of waiting until it was hard enough to remove the screw.

We did this two times and then sanded smooth. Unfortunately we didn't quite get enough on the inside of the bolt. The good news is after I put the gasket on I was able to bolt the rear plate on successfully.

As I was adding the fluid in it immediately began dripping into the pan below. Turns out the funnel I was using was leaking. It does not leak around the gasket now but it does seap very slowly through the bolt hole because we didn't get the wall built up properly on the inside.

I think if I put a gasket on the washer on the outside that we can stop the seapage. The rear end plate is painted and back on. I'll try making a new bolt gasket next week and get that put on. Maybe next year I can take it apart again and complete that one little spot. I have more confidence in the JB Weld holding now. Time will tell though in the long run.

Thanks for all the advice in getting progress on the horrible job someone else sold me. I learned a lot in this process.

[Methos]

Glad you was able to make some progress. Hopefully you'll get the leak to stop.