Replacing manual lift release button

[sawdustdad]

OK, I have a heat wrench that will let me straighten out the bottom of the rod. I just wish I could get the casting off the rockshaft. I'm going to try drilling the spirol pin out. Too bad it's all been recently painted. Lesson: fix broken stuff before you paint.

[Hand_108]

I had the problem with the other end breaking. I took mine to a machine shop in town and for about $20 had a new button and rod made. The button was a little "big" but i ground it down on a bench grinder. I had him make the button a little longer also.
Just my $0.02

Good luck.
John

[Hand_108]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Looked up the lift for a 108 on the Cub parts site. The button is screwed to the rod. Can you get the rod out of the arm from the bottom?

And I just read all the post. Mine was a 108 also. Just use something little smaller than the lift handle inner rod (what you button screws to) and tap out with hammer. It may be tight due to grease, rust etc. but I will come out the bottom. No need to take all of the lift arm off. Use a punch or screw driver and tap it out. Repair. Put back in. Pretty easy and WAY more easy than removing the complete lift arm.

Good luck
John

FYI a QL and 108 handles should be same and interchangable. But dont quote me and anyone can tell me im wrong.

[Hand_108]

Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123

You might as well take this offer. It is probably your best option. I had that happen to me before and although it isn't easy to replace, it is the easiest option that I found. I drove my cub so that the front tires were on my trailer and the rear ones were on the ground. Then I removed the ramps and CHOCKED THE REAR TIRES...so the cub doesn't move. In fact, chain the cub to the trailer for added safety (now I think of that...). This will give you added clearance for removing that manual lift rod and replacing the other. Another option would be to take it to a garage that has a pit to it.

Cub Cadet 123

What worked for me was push the big ole beast to the side on two tires, have wife pull old rod out and put new rod back in. Thats how I did it. Im pretty redneck though. hahahahahah

[cubcadet]

can you just get a new rod and button

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by cubcadet

can you just get a new rod and button

You need to get the old button off to remove the rod. I was able to remove one with plenty of pb blaster and a needle nose pliers...

[sawdustdad]

The button broke in the middle, so I don't think I can push it out from above. It's too far in to grab with needle nose pliers. I think I'm going to try to bend the "J" at the bottom straight (with the oxy/acet torch.) If I can push it up enough to grab the end of the broken button I might be able to unscrew it. Then I'll need to remove the rod, re-bend it, and reinstall it. At least that's the plan. Unless anyone has any other ideas.

Here's an idea. What if I used my stick welder set to 240Amps, hooked one lead to the "J" and the other to the old button, wrapped in tape. Then put it in the hole and held it against the pin. Would it weld itself together?

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Looked up the lift for a 108 on the Cub parts site. The button is screwed to the rod. Can you get the rod out of the arm from the bottom?

I'm pretty sure if the top button (or any part there of) is still screwed onto the rod, the rod will not come out the bottom.

Might be easier to break the "L" off the bottom of the rod and pull it out the top. You can get a screwdriver in around the "L" part at the bottom and pry it down then get ahold of it with vice grips to break it off. Then unscrew the button, weld the "L" part back on then slide it back up through the handle and screw a new button on. Just a thought.

[Yosemite Sam]

Sorry, didn't see Ray's post... I thought the bottom was a separate piece that was welded to the rest of the rod, but yeah, what he said.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Here's an idea. What if I used my stick welder set to 240Amps, hooked one lead to the "J" and the other to the old button, wrapped in tape. Then put it in the hole and held it against the pin. Would it weld itself together?

No, not good enough to hold anything anyway..... But, It would get that rod REALLY, REALLY HOT and quick too.... At 240Amps, it may just melt in a second. It's not much bigger than a welding rod.... and no flux on it to keep it cool. Plus, it would weld the rod the guide where the spring bottoms out.