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#61
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I'm sorry, Didn't mean Hood Latch. Hood Hindge. Julo's broke in a hurricane, and it ripped it off, so he replaced it with 2 door hinges, Well they are bending the hood, so I'm going to replace that hopefully.
The frame rails don't sepperate, Mine must be broken somewhere, because I don't see any crosemembers on it, Or there isn't any ?? I see the ones by the engine, but as far as the rear end, their isn't any. Thanks for the quick responce COdy |
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#62
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The frame is all one piece,looks like this.
http://www.partstree.com/images/diag...ilRO=0&ilSC=30 joe
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Sold everything but one. 1211-snow pusher, cab ,54 inch plow, loaded tires (all 4) Gilson wheel weights, X-trac fronts- soon to have power steering and dual hydraulics |
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#63
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Ok, that makes more since. It's good to know.
@aagitch--- I didn't see your reply, Yea, don't know what caused it, It's not like she's ever been used that mutch. The only thing I know she's ever done besides mow, is pull a little drag. She must have pulled something heavy in her hearlyer days, because there is considerable ware on the drawbar, it seems like she pulled a trailer, or something, because it was bent down and waddled out. Thanks Cody |
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#64
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Ok guys, I'm in a bit of a bind. I put the rear cover on, filled up her. Did it all right, Then noticed a leak in the right axle tube. The outer seal was bad, It looked good before we reinstalled everything, but it leaked,
We got a new one for 7 bucks. Took rear cover off again, drained it toook off the E ring, pulled the axle, and replaced the seal. WOrks like a charm now. We noticed that the rear engine belt was very loose, and the altenator was all the way taunght. Well we thought that the front part of the driveshaft would come off, by taking those bolts off, well it didn't. We pulled all the one, which is blocked by the roll-pin. If we remove the roll pin, will that allow the driveshaft to get out of the way, or will it do nothing. We then tryed removing the rear rubber thing, they have one at the front & rear of driveshaft. The stuff that reduces the vibrations. That didn't work either. Will removing that roll pin allow the driveshaft to get out of the way. Any help would be appreciated. How would yall do it. What is the easiest way to remove the rear belt. that goes on the driveshaft pully, the waterpump, and the altenator. Am I approciing it from the right angles, or going at it all wrong. ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks guys Yall are saving my butt right now. I thought I new a lot Thanks Cody |
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#65
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Take out the battery box to give yourself some room. Knock out the spirol pin that connects the front rag joint coupler to the driveshaft and slide it backwards on the shaft. Unbolt the flex discs, slide them back. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the driveshaft coupler/pilot bushing onto the crankshaft pulley. They are metric and you'll probably have to hit the wrench with a hammer to loosen them and retighten them when you're done. You can now move that to one side or another or wherever you can get it to clear, and then you'll have room to sneak the belt off and a new one on. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
I'm not going to lie: this is a major PITA...I've had two diesels, and I hate changing alternator belts. Thankfully, I won't need to for awhile now. |
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#66
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Elephants: Matt G told it correctly. When the bearings in the Alternator on my 782D froze and ate the Alternator belt, I had to do the exact same procedure to reinstall the a new belt after the Alternator was repaired. Aaaargh!!
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Myron B East Texas Most of of the fleet: Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with. |
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#67
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So, the spirol pin does come out, threw & threw. I didn't know they were called rag joints. Learn something new everyday.
Thanks guys Cody |
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#68
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Well guys, I got it after only about 5 hours. But nedless to say, it's on.
THe altenator is still not charging. Might need to get another, or is it possible to rebuild that. It feels like there is 2 magnets in it, so I don't want to open it up, and some little spring FLIES and I loose it. But that's not the pressing question. That's next. Hey guys. I've got a Question. The pressure relef valve, Should the O ring on it, be conical, or cylindrical. I knoticed that after I rode around for about 10 minutes, I went into the house to get a water, and saw that there was a puddle on the concrete. Is it suposed to be conical. Because I'm thinking that that's the reason she's leaking. It's not comming out the top, but out from the bottom, around the seal. I'm hoping that this is the issue, because that would mean, after this, she's LEAK FREEEEEEEE. ![]() ![]() Thanks guys Cody |
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#69
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The alternator comes apart and you don't have to worry about anything flying out of it. When you have it apart you may want to check the condition of the bearings in it. I had to take mine apart because the bearings went bad. Mine was also very dirty inside and after cleaning it up and putting the new bearings in it charged better. If you need to get a new one, do some good searching the cheapest new one I could find was about 120.00. I've reused those orings and haven't had a leak but it wouldn't hurt to replace it and see what happens. Eventually if you need to replace the valve, do a search on here for a great price direct from the manufacturer.
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#70
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Well, I think that's good news and bad news. 120 bucks. WHOOO
but lets do that math. 40 bucks a battery, a battery a year, 3 years, and I paid for it self. Lets just hope I just have to clean. I don't think it's the bearings, but i"ll still check. I'm going to get a new seal. and then I should be fine. I hope. I've also knoticed, that just after maybe 50 starts, the battery is dieing. guess I need to get that altenator fixed ASAP. Or find a used one. :P:P Thanks for all the help guys. I can't thank yall enough Cody |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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