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#11
06-23-2014, 02:02 PM
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It is more difficult to do on a NF, but it's all there is and has to be done and as mentioned above it can only be done on a tractor that is fully functional.
What is a little scary is the that the adjustment point is located in such a spot that in order to see/get to it, you gotta have the tractor raised and your head right there in front of the spinning tire. If I'm not mistaken it takes a 9/16" socket a 6" extension and a ratchet. IIRC, loosen the bolts to the point where the bracket will slide (with some resistance) under the heads of the bolts. you can use a hammer and punch to tap the bracket up and you can use a large screwdriver to "pry" it down, I think you can get the blade of the screwdriver between the bracket and the head of the top bolt and twist the screwdriver (kinda like adjusting points). I think one of the big things is, to make sure you have all of the other work done first... That way you only have to do it once. FWIW, if you are dealing with a tractor that has much if any wear on the related parts, I don't think it is possible to get it adjusted perfectly. When you pull the lever back and push the pedal down, then push the lever forward and push the pedal down it almost always ends up in two different places. In a situation like this I always try to "split the difference" and call it good. If this is your first time, you may want to choose a time when things are very calm and relaxed in the surrounding area of where you are working and that there are little or no distractions. If you stay calm, be patient and take your time, the job will go much smother and the end result will be much better. Good luck. Edit: Now that I think about it, Cub-n-bxrs is probably right about the heads of the bolts being 12 point, I'll also bet that the 12 point bolts are 7/16" or 1/2" and NOT 9/16" as I said earlier.
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More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE 
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#12
06-23-2014, 03:45 PM
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Thanks, this was what I was hoping someone would help me answer. I can picture it now and that's what i needed, coupled with the service manual I should be good.
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Daniel G.  . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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#13
06-23-2014, 08:49 PM
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WOW!! I guess that the manual does not explain THAT part. I did manage to get to a pc and downloaded the necasary pages but NONE of them explained where the bolts were. Thank you gentlemen for the rest of the story!
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#14
06-23-2014, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
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#15
06-23-2014, 09:14 PM
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Apparently not. I downloaded the service AND hydro manual and neither one shows the correct location of the bolts. The manual shows the bolts on TOP of the rear assy., not the bottom. The hydro manual shows the same.
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#17
06-23-2014, 11:21 PM
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I just came in from welding a trunion, while I was there I checked the bolts... 3/8" 12 point.
Wow am I getting old!
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More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE
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#19
06-24-2014, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
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1641, 1541, 682 with 18hp command engine and hydraulics from a 782. 1872 with a power angle blade.
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#20
06-25-2014, 10:55 AM
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I'm pretty sure the neutral adjust bolts on all my WF tractors are 9/16. There is a pair of 3/8 12pt bolts on the hydro, but those do not hold the cam plate. Is the NF different? (never messed with my 123's hydro.)
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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